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Motorhead 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: C Remy '08
Page Views: 27
Submitted By: Mr. Stevens on Aug 1, 2017

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Lemmy/God

Description 

"Who'd win in a wrestling match, Lemmy or God?"
"Lemmy."
"BUZZZZZZZZ!"
"...God?"
"Wrong, dickhead, trick question. Lemmy IS God."
- Airheads

This is a great route. After a quick steep section, the crux comes right as you pull onto the vertical wall. Very bouldery. Move out left and grab a good rest. Move back out right on some wild moves (well, wild for me, but I'm short) and perform another cruxy move to gain the tufa system. Very thin and slabby here. Reach the tufa and run up jugs with a sweet hand jam thrown in! The bolting is a bit spaced here, but it's all very positive. At the top of the tufa is a horizontal break where you can catch a good shake, but beware of the large flake. It's not loose, per say, but definitely pull DOWN and not OUT. A couple more juggy moves get you to the anchors.

It would be a wise idea to have the first 3 bolts pre-clipped. They are all very close together, and you have to clip the 3rd bolt right in the middle of the crux.

Location 

The only cave area of the Infrared Wall

Protection 

bolts


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