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Motor Mouth 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Bruce Morris & Bill Feiges 6/77
Page Views: 252
Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on Apr 24, 2002

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Little Bro, Matt, working the seam onsight. Good p...

Private Property MORE INFO >>>


This route is located on the right side of the Bucksnort slab. Look for a left leaning crack that passes a large block with a single bolt above.

Pitch 1: 5.9+ 90'

Climb the crack up and left past some tricky moves down low and up to a large block. Pro is good but difficult to see because it is at your feet in the crack behind the block. Pass the block, clip a bolt and make some steep face moves. Clip a piton and move up an easier ground to a bolt anchor.

Pitch 2: 5.8 120'

Hand traverse left above the belay and enter a hand and fist crack. Climb straight up the crack passing a small bulge with an old fixed piece. Continue up the easier slab above the bulge to the top of the cliff and belay at a large pine tree.

Walk off to the climbers left.



Standard rack up to three inches, #1 Ballnut is useful.

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 1, 2009
Jul 21, 2002

First pitch is very worthwhile. I believe the second pitch referred to is the same as the second of Bush of Baelzebub. However, several options are available from the bolt belay.
By Ben F
From: Benfield, Kolorado
Oct 13, 2002

Like other Bucksnort climbs, this one is a bit polished. I would not recommend it to a 5.9 leader.

Some, but not all of the placements are a little suspect.
By Shane Zentner
From: Colorado
Oct 21, 2002

Solid 5.9 for sure. Tricky starting moves to the sketchy block.
By tobias Nitschke
From: CO
Oct 30, 2002

A rather unique route that diagonals up and left in a straight line. It had me fooled from the ground--I thought I'd climb it from beneath the crack, but suddenly I ended up standing on top of it, which made for awkward stances throughout. Good fun!
May 29, 2004

I replaced the protection bolt for this climb (it was a bad 1/4 inch button head). Also, at the bolted anchor for the first pitch, I replaced one bolt/ hanger, one leeper hanger, and added chains/ links. It is now a very satisfying anchor.
By Anonymous Coward
Oct 7, 2004

This sounds like the route Bill Feiges and I named "Motor Mouth" when we did the F.A. back in the summer of 1977. "Motor Mouth" was a name David Crosby applied to himself in an article on CSN&Y in the Rolling Stone magazine.Bruce MorrisBelmont, California
By Kent Lugbill
Oct 7, 2004

Bruce, Good to see your posts. Could you explain the name Miss Fanny Le Pump in Boulder Canyon? Thanks
By Bruce Morris
From: Belmont, CA
Oct 7, 2004

Bob D. is absolutely right. Ms. Fanny worked out in the Washington Park Gym in Denver and she always wore a t-shirt with the Le Pump label on the front (c. 1976). Of course, she was built like that too....
By Brian Tessier
From: Lakehood, Colorado
Mar 6, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Thanks for the gear upgrade!
By Buff Johnson
Jan 20, 2006
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

My impression of this route is one of aquired taste. This route is probably a good one, but I found it left a sour taste with me.

The start is a little tricky, it just doesn't climb the way you think it should. Thanks for ugrading the bolt protecting the crux move, I found it a necessary placement (the crux move is really cool). Aliens worked well on the traversing seam, but I found cams did not offer adequate protection from the lower seam, about 10' lower than a small foot ledge with a block, up to the bolt. For the second, this could be an issue. I did find that there is a tailor-made bomber placement for a blue tri-cam in the foot ledge area, so you may want to bring one along. Or, teach your second the art of fixed-line ascension should they peel off & swing.

The anchor is updated & rappel will take either a single 60M (just rap uphill a little bit), or single 70M straight down. A single 50M is ill-advised.

All of this is with regard to the first pitch, I consider the second pitch as a part of the Bushes line.
By Matt Nelson
From: Pueblo, CO
Jan 26, 2006
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

A very psychological route in my opinion. Has a great crux move. The route doesn't climb as you think but it works great with your feet on the top of the crack...(getting pro in is interesting). A worthwhile climb. Definitely not for someone just breaking into 5.9 climbing.
By Christopher Jones
From: Denver, Colorado
Jul 1, 2009
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Lead this route tonight after work. It was my second time on it, the first was following my friend Walter about six years ago. Nice fun route not an easy 5.9.

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