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Motley Cruise 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Steve Hong
Page Views: 233
Submitted By: Pinklebear on May 4, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (41)
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Mike B. dominating.


This isn't the best route but it's certainly worth doing if you're in the area. It's not as loose as it looks from the ground, if that's any consolation, and the moves are generally juggy and fun.

Motley Cruise is the leftmost of the trio of 5.11s on the far left sector of Bauhaus Wall and starts out in an acute dihedral before lumbering over a blocky roof feature. Amble up the well-featured face above, stopping at anchors below the giant roof band.

This was originally intended as a first pitch to a route through the big roof, which has yet to see any climbing action. Any takers?


10 quickdraws.

Photos of Motley Cruise Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike B. getting ready to dominate.
Mike B. getting ready to dominate.

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By Anonymous Coward
Sep 14, 2003

this one is only an ok warm-up, since it starts a bit hard, and the first clip is off the deck. it actually takes a tiny bit of figgerin, so if this is your out-of-the-sleeping-bag climb, wake up first.

oh, there's also a big loose block at the top, with an"X" on it, but I didn't see the "X" till after I was past it. there's an easy way left to the anchors, and a harder way to the right. the block is, unfortunately, in the easy path. just a heads up.
By Evan Winn
May 7, 2012

Just tried this route for the first time. It seemed a bit harder than 11b. Quite a bit harder than Choss Temple Pilots even. Was I totaly lost on the route, or do the 5 large, well-chalked blocks on the ground have something to do with it?
By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Aug 13, 2014

All protection bolts and anchor bolts replaced with Fixe glue-ins, provided by the ASCA.
By davedad
From: Carbondale, CO
Nov 4, 2014
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Really fun pitch. Watch the hard moves down low. Otherwise, really enjoyable and relatively sustained. Fun and juggy climbing with some great rests. So nice to have the brand new bolts. Thanks to Mike and Lynn!

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