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Climb up the corner on the left and move right to the first bolt. Continue up to a horizontal crack and protect with a TCU. Then climb up and mantle to a good stance on a dike. Protect with a small TCU and continue up past a few bolts making a difficult mantle to another dike. Continue up the slab past bolts to the top, breaking left at the last bolt.
The beginning of this climb is a little contrived, but the top half is excellent. The climbing is on really nicely featured stone.
Located on the detached pillar just right of Sweet Sunday Serenade
. There are three routes with bolts up this. This climb is the middle one. Also, it is the one with homemade hangers.
Rap from two bolt anchor.
Bolts plus a few small TCUs (maybe 0 and 1 Metolius?).
By Alexander Nees
From: Grand Junction, CO
Dec 4, 2013
Sounds like this is the same thing as the route named "Pillar 2"?
By Jeremy Werlin
Sep 27, 2016
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
I think a BD 0.3, 0.4 Camalot would fit in the horizontal, as well. Fairly generous finger-size crack. Some good crimping and pressing on this one. Old school classic.