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Mothra 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 115'
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Killis Howard, C. Long, ...
New Route: Yes
Season: Winter
Page Views: 921
Submitted By: Cunning Linguist on Dec 21, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Sparsely protected but reasonably safe face climbing up the most prominent features on the left side of the wall, 2 short stacked black varnished corners. Route was put in ground-up, onsight, but may become a fairly popular toprope due to the relative ease of obtaining the anchors from the central ledge where many of the routes finish. The character of this one is a bit different in that it is not as blank or slab-oriented as some of the existing routes, more of a mellow face climb with some spice.

Location 

30 feet left of Clutch Cargo is a large barrel cactus, above which are visible a few red-painted camo hangers. The route climbs up to and through the 2 short varnished corners before finishing up the face to an anchor on the left edge of the central scoop where several of the routes on this cliff finish.

Protection 

As is typical on Ultraman Wall, climbing is lower-angle and fairly runout. A single rack of cams to 1" and wires is plenty for the route, long slings for choking chickenheads and extending placements in the two corner sections to cut down on drag. Strong leaders will probably be happy getting by with a #13 nut and a .4 or .5 cam, the climbing is secure and protected by bolts anywhere near cruxy moves.


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By Cunning Linguist
Dec 21, 2013

Red slings at anchor, chains may be added at some point but bringing some spare webbing might be a good idea until that happens. There are two bolts near each other at the stance atop the initial big hollow flake, the lower one went in first and turned out to be a spinner. Until I can remove this and patch the hole, ignore it or clip both if it makes you feel warm+fuzzy. The upper bolt is the solid one.

The initial flake is a rope-eater, moving climbers' left and back away from the cliff will get you a clean pull.
By John Hegyes
From: Las Vegas, NV
Feb 12, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Fun route, the corners are scenic. In addition to the draws I only used a medium-size nut and a long sling for a chicken head.
By Cunning Linguist
Feb 13, 2014

Thanks for the vote of confidence on this one, John. Thought I was treading the line of what was going to be acceptable for a trade route. The last bolt was a retrobolt that I put in after finishing the route with a 30 foot runout, thought the distance and the crunch factor justified making it a bit safer for the crowds. Overall I'm happy with the end result, got back to remove the spinning bolt so hardware should be all good now.
By micah richard
From: Litchfield, Connecticut
Apr 12, 2014

fun route. the black corner area protects well with small tri cams. also ,there is gear to be had in between the black varnished plates. i backed up the rings at the anchor with a cord. 2 quick links on each bolt would make a nice lower off anchor, if anyone wants to bring them up there.
By Ed Forkos
Nov 8, 2014

On 10/27/2014, we placed chains and mussy hooks at the anchor. This is really a wonderful mixed climb for the beginning leader. We laid a backpack on top of the barrel cactus below the start to avoid a prickly tragedy.
By Ben Townsend
Nov 17, 2016

Nice climb, pretty easy after the initilal boulder problem move. I suggest skipping the bolt next to the upper corner, as it adds a lot of drag and there's reasonable gear available.

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