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Mother's Day Party 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 170'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jim Kolocotronis, Herb Laeger, 1973
Page Views: 3,879
Submitted By: Jeff Welch on Jun 3, 2006

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One of the excellent 5.10s on the Mac Wall.

Use the MF access trail, about a 6-min. walk from the Uberfall, or a 2-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road. The trail deposits you at the base of MF; Mother's Day Party is the next route immediately to the left of MF. The route starts at the base of a small left-facing corner that arches towards the left.

P1: Climb straight up the corner and continue to a ledge. The first crux is getting through the small right-facing flakes to the base of the greenish corner. Step left, up the orange-colored face for a few moves, then step back right to the corner at a small overhang. Fire through three big moves on good holds (2nd crux) to the MF bolt anchors. 5.10b, 80'.

P2: Diagonal up and right to a notch in the roof. Pull the roof (crux) to join MF, and follow it to the GT Ledge. 5.10a, 90'.


Standard rack.

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By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Oct 19, 2008

I think the description describes a variation that angles right out of the curving left facing corner to reach the MF bolt anchors. That's the sensible way to TR it from the MF anchors, but I believe the original route continued up and left in the arching corner past another crux move involving (for me) a one finger jam to reach the gigantic hand traverse flake.
By Jeff Welch
From: Denver, CO
May 28, 2009

That may very well be, and Ivan would know better than I. I only TR'd it and was told that what I did was the correct line, which seems to agree with the line drawn in the photo in Dick William's gray book.
However, if the description needs editing, please let me know and I'll do it.
By paulmadry
Aug 1, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

There is controversy over where exactly the second pitch goes. Guidebook sez diagonal right but that would be MF. I went straight up from the MF chains (with small pro in less than ideal rock) into rectangular break in ceiling. There was a piton five feet to right. Felt harder than 10a to reach the big hold in the ceiling but that's cuz I'm not tall.
By Chris Duca
From: Havertown, PA
Apr 4, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

Great route! Though, I'd say keep your wits about you after you commit to the 2nd'd be a nice, long fall if you peeled!
By Simon Thompson
From: New Paltz, NY
Nov 11, 2014
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

If the cruxes on pitch 1 are 10b, that puts the pitch 2 crux at 10d in my book. Pitch 1 sports really great climbing with good gear. The crux on pitch 2 involves a super reachy move(look for hidden crimp to avoid dyno) from an undercling with pro in less than ideal rock. Fun climb!
By Pawel Janowski
From: WA
Jul 6, 2015
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Such excellent climbing! The second crux is commiting but the first of the three moves is the hardest so just keep going. It's well protected by a mid-sized cam (or two if you're like me).

The variation Ivan speaks about (continue left up the arching corner instead of straight up the big moves towards MF anchors) is called Mother Bird in the new gunks app and rated 5.10d. It's a nice couple of fun moves, more like 10b than 10d.

I'm always confused about which way through the roof is Birdie Party and which way is Mother's Day Party.
By Simon Thompson
From: New Paltz, NY
May 27, 2016
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Pawel, Mother's Day Party P2 goes left of MF through the roof at a rectangular break with tricky gear and devious beta. Birdie Party P2 fires the roof further left at a left-facing flake that comes out to the lip, and involves a strenuous heel hook.

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