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Mother's Buttress

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Mother's Buttress Rock Climbing 


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Location: 38.81382, -108.6192 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Matthew Seymour on Oct 15, 2009
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New plaque in place in memory of John Peterson on ...

Description 

The Mother's Buttress area was one of the first areas in the canyon to be developed, and with good reason. Excellent stone with continuous cracks, excellent solid face features, and steep unbroken rock make this area a true gem. The Mother's Buttress is broken into three main crags: Lower, Middle, and Upper Mother's Buttresses. A smaller crag, the Cave Buttress, is also accessed from the same approach, simply walk up and right once you reach the cliff.

Lower Mother's contains a great collection of single pitch cracks from 5.7 to 5.10, and is often a popular area for groups to set up top-ropes. The alcove on Middle Mother's contains the best collection of single pitch 5.11s in the canyon, with a few harder, and longer lines thrown in. Upper Mother's is home to a few classics including Questions and Answers, the undisputed classic multi-pitch in the canyon.

The majority of climbing on Mother's Buttress is on property that is currently owned by local climbers, but will soon be held by a climbing non-profit: the Western Colorado Climbers Coalition. Due to the way the property lines were drawn some climbs on the right side of Lower Mother's and all those on Cave Buttress are owned by another, and this parcel is currently for sale. Stay tuned for more developments.

As of July 2012, the WCCC with the help of volunteers, donations, and grants has been completed the Mother's Buttress project. A special thank you to the Petersons, who bought this property to keep it in climbers’ hands and subdivided it so the cliff side would be open to the public for future generations. The Access Fund also played a key role in this project.

Getting There 

Drive 3.1 miles along CO-141 past the turn for divide road to a small pull out on the right side of the road.

There is a new trail that avoids private land that starts just left of the old trail. If you get the right trail you don't need to jump the fence, it is cut down between two of the posts.

Please park a couple feet back away from the edge of the gravel.

Climbing Season



Weather station 17.6 miles from here

84 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',12],['3 Stars',42],['2 Stars',27],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',5],['5.8',15],['5.9',10],['5.10',22],['5.11',24],['5.12',5],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Mother's Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Mother's Buttress:
Alex's Tower   5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Lower Mother's Buttress
Black Bunny Rabbit    5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Other Mothers
Cow-a-Bunga   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   Lower Mother's Buttress
84.1% Eclipse of the Heart (The Eclipse Route)   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Other Mothers
Mint Jam   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch   Lower Mother's Buttress
Fine Line, A   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   Lower Mother's Buttress
Guide's Route   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, 6 pitches, 670'   Lower Mother's Buttress
No Name Route   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch   Lower Mother's Buttress
RSG   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Other Mothers
Large, Purple and Violent   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   The Outback
Red Orkan   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 105'   The Outback
The Double Reach Around   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Middle Mother's
Boodalicious Baby   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 5 pitches, 450'   Other Mothers
Questions and Answers   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   Upper Mother's Buttress
The Lord of Wisdom   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Lower Mother's Buttress
Indirect Objects   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   Middle Mother's
Jagged Edge   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Middle Mother's
Doppelgänger   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 350'   Upper Mother's Buttress
Iron Maiden   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   Middle Mother's
Soul Steeler   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Other Mothers
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Mother's Buttress

Featured Route For Mother's Buttress
Rock Climbing Photo: The route.

Mamacita 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a  Colorado : Grand Junction Area : ... : Other Mothers
Mamacita is a 50 meter mega pitch protected by 8 bolts and gear. Two bolt anchor...[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

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Comments on Mother's Buttress Add Comment
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By John Peterson
Oct 18, 2010
accessfund.org/site/apps/nlnet...

The credit for this goes to Steve Johnson, who worked tirelessly on all of the legal issues for over two years to get this through countless bureaucratic roadblocks.
By Rschap
From: Grand Junction, CO
Aug 2, 2012
On July 28th 2012, the Western Colorado Climbers’ Coalition completed the second and final phase of the parking lot on the Mothers Buttress property. With this, the Mothers Buttress project is finished. This would not have been possible without the help of volunteers, donations, and grants. A special thank you to the Petersons, who bought this property to keep it in climbers’ hands and subdivided it so the cliff side would be open to the public for future generations. Your support and continued patience throughout this project was amazing. The Access Fund has played a major role in helping the WCCC get to this point of completion, without their guidance and support this would not have been possible. Thank you to everyone that has helped make this possible.

When parking here, please park a couple feet back away from the edge of the gravel. With time the rain will help pack this down, but for now the ground is still settling. Thank you.
By Marti Peterson
Aug 3, 2017
Hey, climber dudes and dudettes.
There will be a small, low-key dedication of a plaque for John Peterson on Lower Mother's Buttress on 8/5/2017, at 11am. Come if you like!

Otherwise, the next time you are there, please, notice the plaque, and tell a John-story.

Please share this notice with your climbing buddies in Colorado that knew John.
--Marti Peterson

Getting There
3.1 miles West of Divide Road on Hwy 141 near Whitewater, CO. Park at a pullout on the side of the road near a fire burn area directly below the Lower Mother Buttress. Hike to the base of the Lower in 10 minutes, 15 to the Upper.
___________________________________
Marti Peterson

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