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Motherlode Rock - East Face

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Belleville TR 
Black Bart S 
Blasting Cap S 
Cap Gun T 
Dust in the Wind T 
Fire in the Hole S 
Fools Gold T 
Golden Gloves S 
Golden Nugget S 
Lodestone S 
Motherlode S 
Out of Our Mines S 
Psychedelic Sluice T 
Shantytown Swing S 
Wildrose S 

Motherlode Rock - East Face Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 7,500'
Location: 34.30869, -116.87815 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 15,206
Administrators: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: C Miller on Aug 23, 2006
Forecast:
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Tom Donnely above the crux of Motherload.

Description 

The east face of Motherlode Rock is fairly long wall with a high concentration of climbs on the left side and only a few routes on the rest of the rock. Climbs here tend to be on the short side but feature excellent rock and protection. Morning sun and afternoon shade.

Recommended routes here include Wildrose (5.6), Golden Nugget (5.10a), Lodestone (5.10b) and Out of Our Mines (5.10d).

This area seems to be quite popular with groups of top-ropers, so be courteous as well as patient and enjoy the climbing.

Routes listed from left to right:

Blasting Cap (5.3)
Wildrose (5.6)
Fire in the Hole (5.10a)
Fools Gold (5.6)
Golden Nugget (5.10a)
Motherlode (5.11b)
Black Bart (5.11a)
Psychedelic Sluice (5.6)
Belleville (5.9+ TR)
Shantytown Swing (5.6)
Dust in the Wind (5.4)
Out of Our Mines (5.10d)
Miner Forty-Niner (5.8)

Getting There 

Easily reached from the vicinty of The Ampitheatre (Claim Jumper Wall, Gunsmoke Wall or Thunderbird Wall) by a network of trails or from the northern parking area by another series of trails.

Climbing Season

For the Holcomb Valley Pinnacles area.

Weather station 4.5 miles from here

15 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',6],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',4],['5.11',3],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Motherlode Rock - East Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Motherlode Rock - East Face:
Psychedelic Sluice   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Fools Gold   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Golden Nugget   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   
Fire in the Hole   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   
Lodestone   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Out of Our Mines   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Black Bart   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Motherlode   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Motherlode Rock - East Face

Featured Route For Motherlode Rock - East Face
Rock Climbing Photo: Golden Gloves (5.11b), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles

Golden Gloves 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  California : San Bernardino Mountains : ... : Motherlode Rock - East Face
This seldom done link-up combines the lower portion of Motherlode with the upper portion of Black Bart for a one-two punch that combines the cruxes of both those routes. Boulder up past two bolts to a ledge, clip a high bolt on the left with a long sling and then move right onto a ramp and join Black Bart at it's 4th bolt before heading up the thin slab above to anchors. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Photos of Motherlode Rock - East Face Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Motherlode Rock (East Face Left), Holcomb Valley P...
BETA PHOTO: Motherlode Rock (East Face Left), Holcomb Valley P...
Rock Climbing Photo: Motherlode Rock (East Face Right), Holcomb Valley ...
Motherlode Rock (East Face Right), Holcomb Valley ...
Rock Climbing Photo: 1. Golden Nugget (5.10a) 2. Motherload (5.11b) 3. ...
BETA PHOTO: 1. Golden Nugget (5.10a) 2. Motherload (5.11b) 3. ...

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