REI Community
Escape Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Awakening S 
Body Bag S 
Dead on Arrival S 
Denied S 
Inside Information S 
Jug for Joy S 
Middle Class Socialist Brat S 
Monkey Meet S 
Motherload S 
No Escaping Death S 
Presidents Day S 
Rock Requiem S 
Steel Graffiti S 
Twist and Shout S 


YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Brian Smoot
Page Views: 922
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Aug 15, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (46)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: 1 Rock Requiem 5.11c 2 Presidents Day 5.10b 3 No E...

Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>


A short, juggy climb up overhanging rock. Start on ledges and juggy sidepulls to the first bolt, then pockets to the second (including a nifty, smooth, white pocket lined with some sort of quartz-like deposit).

After the second bolt comes the crux. You can go right or left of the bolt. Choose wisely.


Motherload is located near the right side of Escape Buttress. It is the first route left of the evergreen tree which is located at the right side of the wall. Alternatively, it is the ninth route from the left on the main wall.


5 bolts and chain anchors.

Comments on Motherload Add Comment
Show which comments
By Perin Blanchard
From: Orem, UT
Aug 15, 2007

This is in the Ruckman guide as 5.10 (no letter). I thought it was a bit harder than Twist and Shout and a bit easier than Jug for Joy.
By Perin Blanchard
From: Orem, UT
Sep 3, 2007

I just noticed that this route is in Stewart Green's Rock Climbing Utah at 5.10b/c. Since I'm sure he's much better at judging ratings than I, I changed this from 5.10a to 5.10b/c.
By Mark Lewis
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jul 26, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Fun route, hard pulling, but holds abound. A must do if in the area, short but sweet!
By SaraD
Apr 18, 2016

This route starts off pretty fun and easy with lots of holds, but getting to the third bolt is the crux. Tried going left (slopey slab with left hand) and right (lighter rock with a crimp for the right hand), but both ways still had a long straight arm reach to the bolt.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About