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Mother of Pearl 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Ellison, Moffat FFA Bitter
Page Views: 7,426
Submitted By: Louis Arevalo on Oct 15, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (32)
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Merril Bitter leading during the first ascent in 1...

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


This route continues up and left of the anchors of Looney Tunes through shallow rounded lie backing to small stemming between seams and finishes in a strange left facing, over hanging dihedral. It may be broken into separate pitches, but what fun would that be?


This begins as Looney Tunes then heads up and left to finish about 60 feet above the Trinity Right anchors.


Many small pieces with cams up to 4".
There are a few bolts, a fixed pin and a bashy on route.

Photos of Mother of Pearl Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris Gmitro on Mother of Pearl
Chris Gmitro on Mother of Pearl
Rock Climbing Photo: Paul Shilton makes his way up the finishing dihedr...
Paul Shilton makes his way up the finishing dihedr...
Rock Climbing Photo: Paul Shilton embracing the insecure liebacking of ...
Paul Shilton embracing the insecure liebacking of ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris Gmitro, enjoying a nice rest before the fina...
Chris Gmitro, enjoying a nice rest before the fina...
Rock Climbing Photo: An individual from another party (Derrick?) on Mot...
An individual from another party (Derrick?) on Mot...

Comments on Mother of Pearl Add Comment
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By tenesmus
Dec 29, 2007

would two sets of smaller cams be sufficient or more?
By bheller
From: SL UT
Sep 8, 2008

The book lists the grade of this route at 11c, at that it seems like one of the hardest 5.11s anywhere. Great route! Technical and insecure most of the way. As for the gear, one hand size piece, doubles up to red metolius with triples on yellow #2 metolius, tiny nut for the upper dihedral and lots of slings and draws should get you up it.
By CalmAdrenaline
From: SL,UT
Jun 24, 2010
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

The upper dihedral is HARD, I agree with Bheller, one of the hardest 11s ive been on.
By T_jones
From: Salt Lake
Sep 27, 2010

Upper dihedral protects with a small nut and then a .5 after starting the committing layback. When I climbed this I wondered if all the bolts are necessary? The last one was right next to a protectable flake. Regardless, this route is a full serving of insecure, powerful laybacks and is great the whole way up.
By drewford
From: Wasatch Back, UT
Feb 5, 2011

Can be done in one long pitch from the ground, making a nice long 12a. I agree -- the bolts are excessive.
By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
Oct 1, 2012
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I have heard some say this one is harder than trinity right, but I disagree. MOP has a few hard liebacking sections, but 2 no hands rests keep the pump down, so it is not nearly as sustained as trinity, or other 11c's like gargoyle. There are 3 bolts and a fixed pin mixed with good gear on the lower 2/3 of the route, adding ease to the liebacking. The stemming between grassy seams sections is easy and fun, then the upper dihedral is by far the mental, gear fiddling crux. I found the sequence to be: Clip the fixed bashie, stem up and place the small nut, then punch it to a great finger lock and place the .5 camalot before lunging left for a jug sidepull, then pull over the easy juggy roof to the anchors. Don't be intimidated by its reputation. It is excellent, well protected climbing.

Gear I placed: #4 nut, doubles .3 to .75 camalot, one #3 camalot(backing up bashie), 10 QD's(it wanders). Bring more if linking it with Looney Tunes
70m gets you down no prob
By DoubleA
Oct 24, 2014

I will go +1 that this route is 12a if done in one pitch from the ground (does anyone actually pitch it out?). Considerably more difficult than Trinity Right as a total package.
By Mark D Evans
From: Sandy, UT
Oct 29, 2014
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

This route is stout, but I don't agree with the 12.a rating if done as one pitch. And it is definitely not harder than T-Right. Different climbing, and longer, but not harder climbing by any means. There are great rests everywhere! Also, the climbing is not really that difficult, just insecure. But the sections of intense climbing are pretty short and very well protected.

The upper dihedral is tricky, but good stemming technique makes all the difference! There is only one move without chickenhead feet.

Also, I found having 3 x BD.5/orange metolius very handy. I used 2 on looney tunes, and one on the start of MOP.

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