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Mother of All Spires Area
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Mother of All Spires T 

Mother of All Spires 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Kevin Daniels & Beth Renn, 1995
Page Views: 487
Submitted By: toddgordon Gordon on Apr 18, 2010

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The Mother of All Spires, as seen with a telephoto...


This rather large spire has the longest approach of any climb that I know of in the Park. The approach takes between 2 and 3 hours. This spire can be seen from the main highway as the black spire way up on the hillside to the south, as you head east just past the Indian Cove Entrance Rd. The route climbs up cracks and flakes on the south side of the spire.


The route is on the south side of the spire. There are 2 bolts on the summit to rap from.


Mostly medium to large cams. When we climbed this spire, we saw evidence that someone had attemped to drill an anchor on the summit, but had never finished the job. We placed two bolts on the summit, so you could safely get off the spire. I believe that Kevin Daniels and Tony Sartin may also have climbed this spire from the Queen Mountain side, but other than that, I have no information on this spire or any ascents of this spire.

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By Kevin Daniels aka KD
May 22, 2010


beth and i did climb that tower in 94 or 95. i tried to drill a bolt but my hand drill was bunk. i saw it while descending from walts rocks into the valley. have you seen the rock art ( the big panel ) on the way down to 49 palms oasis ?

By toddgordon Gordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
May 22, 2010

We saw the attempted drilled anchor....we put in a bomber one....That was one hell of a hike...did NOT see the rock art on the way in...wish I would have. Thanks for the spire WAY out there....WAY......

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