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Mothballed 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Tucker Tech (late '80s)
Page Views: 416
Submitted By: Bryan G on Feb 20, 2013

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This climb can be toproped after leading Tiny Tim, or it is a fairly well protected lead. All the lead bolts and one of the anchor bolts were replaced by the ASCA in 2011.

Start up a right facing corner and then undercling right under a small roof to the first bolt. From here make some very difficult moves to gain the shallow double cracks. The crux is 5.11 and is probably getting harder as the potato-chip edges crumble away. Once you're in the double cracks follow them up and exit to the right of some hummocks and take easier terrain to the anchor.

Protection 

Pro to 2" but mostly small stuff. The main difficulties are protected by bolts.


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By chris pdx
Jun 14, 2016

Tried this route last week. The beginning is easy but as noted in the description the rock is flaky. There are virtually no holds to get you to the cracks beyond the first bolt above the under-cling section.

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