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Mossy Ledges Area

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Barking Dog, The T 
Boldness, The T 
Cheatstone Crack T 
Chocolate Sunday T 
Coronary Bypass T 
CU on Top T 
Hookers and blow. T 
Hundred-Foot Stick Clip T,TR 
Numic Warrior T 
Pincushion T 
Pussy Nuts T 
Rapper's Disappointment T 
Roberto Duran T 
Secret Ingredient T 
Soylent Green Jeans T 
Stirling Moss T 

Mossy Ledges Area Rock Climbing 


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Location: 36.15925, -115.5009 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 7,570
Administrators: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Larry DeAngelo on Sep 2, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: Descent options in the Mossy Ledges area.

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is best known as area of Soylent Green Jeans and Stirling Moss. Although there are several excellent climbs on these cliffs, they have not seen a lot of recent action. A number of bolts and old pitons in the area testify to unrecorded climbing activity over the span of decades. Most of the route names and FA details are lost to the ages, but were probably the work of the usual suspects who were active in the 70s and 80s. Kevin Lowell is also thought to have put up some of the early routes. Most of the routes in this area face to the north and are climbable in warm weather.


The general layout is as follows:

The leftmost section is the alcove with Soylent Green Jeans. This area is just around the corner to the right of the The Case Face. It is easily identifiable by the two large pine trees at the base of the cliffs. There is a rappel station immediately above CU on Top which allows descent with a single rope. A scrambling descent can be made a little further to the left. Just above the vegetated area at the top of Soylent Green Jeans, a highly featured slab leads up 150 feet to the next level. This slab can be used to approach (or descend from) the Cheatstone Crack or the Egg.

To the right of the Soylent Green Jeans alcove is a broad, featured buttress with what appears to be a huge hanging block on its right side. A smaller, mini-buttress lies against the face below and right of the hanging block.

To the right of the Hanging Block Buttress, the face becomes taller, and features some areas of good rock mixed in with some heavily moss-covered stone. Above the level of this face, the topography becomes more confused, but good climbing is to be found on the Cheatstone Crack, and historical significance on the Egg.

Descent from the upper levels is probably easiest by scrambling to a rappel from a tree atop the featured slab just above Soylent Green Jeans. From the big ledge at the top of the Hanging Block, you can rappel from either of two bolted stations, one at the top of Coronary Bypass, the other on top of Hundred-Foot Stick Clip.

Getting There 

Drive in on the main Willow Springs road. This road runs northwest until the pavement ends near the main picnic area. Just upstream from the Case Face, a small canyon branches off to the left and leads west beneath some good cliffs. Park in this area and walk across the main wash to enter the small canyon. After just a short distance you can head up the hillside to the base of the wall. A scrambling approach can also be made from the area of the Case Face.

Climbing Season

For the Willow Spring area.

Weather station 4.5 miles from here

16 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',3],['5.8',2],['5.9',7],['5.10',1],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Mossy Ledges Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Mossy Ledges Area:
Coronary Bypass   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 2 pitches, 220'   
Secret Ingredient   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 140'   
Chocolate Sunday   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 140'   
Pincushion   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   
Cheatstone Crack   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Soylent Green Jeans   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Stirling Moss   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R     Trad, 1 pitch, 180'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Mossy Ledges Area

Featured Route For Mossy Ledges Area
Rock Climbing Photo: The Cheatstone Crack is high above Soylent Green J...

Cheatstone Crack 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  NV : Red Rock : ... : Mossy Ledges Area
High up, on the third tier of cliffs, there is a gem of a jam crack, similar in character and quality to Ragged Edges. The cheatstone itself is a boulder about the size of a fairly roomy utility shed. A few stems simplify the opening moves. Good hand jams lead up the steep, pocketed face to a small alcove with a wide crack. Stem to the top and walk off left....[more]   Browse More Classics in NV

Photos of Mossy Ledges Area Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The key features on the right (western) side of th...
BETA PHOTO: The key features on the right (western) side of th...
Rock Climbing Photo: Green=Stirling Moss; Orange=Soylent Greenjeans; Re...
BETA PHOTO: Green=Stirling Moss; Orange=Soylent Greenjeans; Re...
Rock Climbing Photo: Soylent Green Jeans area. Belay ledge marked.
BETA PHOTO: Soylent Green Jeans area. Belay ledge marked.
Rock Climbing Photo: An overview of the main landmarks in the Mossy Led...
BETA PHOTO: An overview of the main landmarks in the Mossy Led...

Comments on Mossy Ledges Area Add Comment
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By Tom Fralich
From: Fort Collins, CO
Mar 28, 2014
There is a bolted rap station at the top of the long slabby section above Soylent Green Jeans. A double-rope rappel gets you down to the tree above Soylent Green Jeans. We did the link-up of Chocolate Sunday - Pincushion - Cheatstone Crack for a couple hundred feet of quality climbing with a 15 minute approach and easy descent.