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Mosstique 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Christian Burrell
Page Views: 595
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on May 13, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: The approach to the outlying routes associated wit...

Description 

A fairly fun, slabby, quartzite route with a discontinuity in the middle for some spice.

Mosstique starts on a ledge that requires some work to reach. From the ledge climb onto the slabby face and clip the first bolt. Then it's up some mostly clean and solid rock until the short "headwall". Surmount this and continue to the anchors.

There is a bit of exposure here and there which makes it fun.

Location 

Mosstique is located past the upper right (south) side of Red Slab on some angular slabs thrusting up and east (the bottom of Ed and Terry Ridge). The belay ledge is just above and to the right of the left-leaning wide crack just to the right of the scramble to the top of Red Slab.

To get to the belay ledge there are several options.

1. Scramble up twenty feet or so unprotected to the ledge. I wouldn't recommend this.

2. Climb the twenty feet with gear. Didn't try this, but it looks doable.

3. Scramble to the top of Red Slab and then back down to the belay ledge. The traverse to the ledge isn't difficult but you certainly wouldn't want to fall from there. This is what I did, then I belayed my daughter up the mossy, slabby, west-facing rock to the belay ledge.

Protection 

6 bolts to hanger-and-ring rappel anchors. You'll want a quickdraw with a shorter-than-5-inch or longer-than-7-inch dogbone for the fifth bolt.

There are also anchors on the starting ledge to which to anchor the belayer and from which to rappel.


Photos of Mosstique Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Mosstique, 5.8
BETA PHOTO: Mosstique, 5.8

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By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
May 13, 2007

If it wasn't such a pain to get to, this route would be quite popular. I thought it was enjoyable and would give it two stars but for the approach.
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Oct 1, 2007

Start off the nice flat block ledge seen above the short chimney at the right side of Red Slab. The crux is turning the corner/roof feature at 2/3 height. A few good holds mixed in with some not so good ones for a fun exposed adventure.
By Tristan Higbee
From: Ogden, UT
Jul 24, 2008

I think that approach option number 3 is the best option. This is a good route. Clean rock with fun, slabby moves. The roof part is definitely the crux. It's a bit awkward, but fun and interesting.