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Moss Madness 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 10 pitches, 1000', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Clint Cummins and Bob Steed 3/21/2010
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 446
Submitted By: bob steed on Mar 31, 2010

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The topo

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  • Description 

    Pitch 1: Starts 10' right of Dangling Chads pitch 1 in a dark seam that takes micronuts for pro. 5.8
    Pitch 2: Up right facing corner to a 5.11a thin crux 60 feet up. 5.11a
    Pitch 3: Go left to join D.C. for 30' then climb back right up some large munge. Easy slab follows to a grey rock scar. 5.7
    Pitch 4: Straight up past slab to a bulge with a crack in the middle. Belay on a ledge 20' above this bulge (2 bolt belay). 5.8
    Pitch 5: Up past 3 bolts to a belay in the munge zone next to a block 60' up and right past the 3rd bolt. 5.9
    Pitch 6: Up and right past munge to a large slot in the headwall. Belay above the slot at the 2 bolt belay for Eagle's Eyrie. 5.9
    Pitch 7: Go up and left to a white slab with a hidden thin crack. When the angle eases move up and right to the base of the giant headwall. 5.7
    Pitch 8: Traverse left to avoid the lower headwall then up 4th class to a point level with a large manzanita in the middle of the headwall. Traverse right past an awkward section to gain a small ledge just above the manzanita bush. 5.7
    Pitch 9: Up to the left of two cracks that breach a steep section, then up past easy blocks to a belay below a steep handcrack or move right to the 2 bolt belay of Eagle's Eyrie. 5.8
    Pitch 10: Up the short, steep handcrack to the top.

    Descent: rap Eagle's Eyrie via it's 9 bolted belays (all SS 3/8" as of 3/21/2010)


    Located just to the right of Dangling Chads 5.9 start. Look for a thin seam in dark rock.


    2 each thin cams to 2.5"
    nuts including micro and offset

    Photos of Moss Madness Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: lower part, unnamed is in yellow
    BETA PHOTO: lower part, unnamed is in yellow
    Rock Climbing Photo: upper part, unnamed in yellow
    BETA PHOTO: upper part, unnamed in yellow
    Rock Climbing Photo: overview of routes, unnamed is in yellow
    BETA PHOTO: overview of routes, unnamed is in yellow

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