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Mosquito Coil 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
Page Views: 348
Submitted By: Ryan Kelly on Nov 8, 2007  with updates from Kris Henderson

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Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>


Fun route. Starts kind of low angle on big holds but turns vertical just past half way through. Just enough good huecos get you almost to the top where you can either go to the right and finish on the anchor of No Name 6b or continue up and slightly left to finish at the correct anchor which is about 6 feet to the right of the anchor of Keep The Jam, Man. Depending on your finish I would put it between 10d and 10b.


Difficult to say, on the main wall its about 4 or 5 routes right of the left-hand side. Look for easy jug climbing that thins out to a vertical much blanker section - with a tree and anchor in the vicinity.


Three sketchy looking slings then two titanium bolts, one more sling, then the anchor. About 8 draws

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By Glen Charnoski
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 14, 2011

Im pretty sure this is the route I did just right of Keep The Jam Man. I too rated it 5.10b/c. I saw 1 bolt and 3 slings on this route.
By Lindsey Robinson
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 21, 2014

A recent guide book has this as the route (6a+) right of Keep the Jam (6a), like Glen says above. There are several sets of sling anchors so close to each other at the top, you could possibly choose either depending on if you top out right or left... I disagree with the mp beta-- I found the route to naturally finish slightly left. My partner tried going right and really struggled.
By mc kaiser
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 20, 2016

There are two threads after you clip the first bolt and they are laughably bad currently (might not hold body weight- totally core shot and shredded). Fortunately, this is over easy terrain. I'm very tall (6' 7"), so getting to a solid stance where I could clip the next Ti bolt was no problem. For someone shorter it may not be so trivial.

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