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Mosquito Burrito 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 105'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Rick Leitner, July 1998
Page Views: 7,215
Submitted By: Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001

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Cherie leading.

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  • Description 

    This is a well-protected beginning lead route. Belay from under the obvious tree and scramble up the class 4 to the base of the right face at the dihedral. Move up and step onto the face, and follow the bolts up, staying on the right side of them.

    Protection 

    9 bolts to a 2 chain anchor just off the top of the face. We recommend a 60m rope for this route.


    Photos of Mosquito Burrito Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: The route from the anchors.
    The route from the anchors.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Great winter Boulder Canyon sport route.
    Great winter Boulder Canyon sport route.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Ryan about to start his rappel. Great route!
    Ryan about to start his rappel. Great route!
    Rock Climbing Photo: What a great route! Taken on 3-5-07.
    What a great route! Taken on 3-5-07.
    Rock Climbing Photo:
    BETA PHOTO

    Comments on Mosquito Burrito Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 11, 2017
    By Anonymous Coward
    Jan 1, 2001

    The new Rolofson book say that if you follow this route up on the right of the bolts (kind of using the arete) then it goes at 5.9. If, on the other hand, you climb directly up the bolt line its a 5.10a/b. The route is called Mosquito Burrito (I think). Either way, it's a great climb and harder than 5.8. I found myself edging to the right (easier 5.9 territory) and would agree with the 9 grade.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Jan 1, 2001

    Again what is up with the undergrading at this site? At the very least, even by Eldo standards this is 5.9. Very few 5.8 leaders will hike up the first 10 feet of this route without trouble. After the start, the grade is much more reasonable.
    By Michael Komarnitsky
    Founding Father
    From: Seattle, WA
    Jan 1, 2001

    First, would you add your name? It's a lot better to know who I'm talking to. I'm not sure what it's rated in the new book, but it's "severely" slabby. The moves take a little bit to figure out, but you could basically take a nap up there on any of the moves - it's so flat.
    By Mark Ferguson
    Jun 26, 2001

    The 5.8 rating for this climb is right on. If anything, it is easier than 5.8.
    By Jon Grayson
    Mar 27, 2002

    Actually, it feels like 4th class...except if you follow the bolt line and keep your hands/feet off anything big, then it feels like 10a. I would NOT call this a 'good beginner's lead' though since a bit of technique is required, including keeping the rope from behind your legs (a common beginner mistake). Any fall on the 'lower angle slab', especially w/o a helmet, could be fatal.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Jun 7, 2002
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    Pulling direct through the overhang Right of the bolts was a 5.10a power move. The guys on this prior to me called this a boulder-problem variation.

    Coming in from the left on the start felt about 5.8. For my own part, I got on the route and was amazed at the friction I was getting on the smears- it is some of the best around!

    As for this being a great beginner lead, I've taught literally 100's of people to climb... I am used to beginners leading. I put a novice leader on it last night (a 5.9+ climber) who on-sighted the climb as one of his first-ever leads. There seems to be very little chance or fear of serious consequence, even if the leader fails on the route at any point.

    The bolts are spaced so close he could have Z-clipped, so it seams reasonably safe. I did yell at him twice about getting his feet in the rope (he immediately moved both times). Seems about par for the course.

    I had not read these comments prior to climbing the route and I consider my opinions to be formed on my own.
    By ClimbandMine
    Oct 24, 2002

    The rating pretty much depends on the line you decide to take and how much of the seam you decide to use. My buddy thought the 10a cruxes were near the last bolt and just below the ledge based on the line he took. Based on what I did I thought it was 9+ish, just below the ledge.It's all a matter of degrees.
    By Richard M. Wright
    From: Lakewood, CO
    Mar 11, 2003

    These anchors are starting to wear down. Until they get switched it is certainly prudent to TR or lower through your own gear and rap off the anchor when finished.
    By John Riggs
    Apr 19, 2003

    I am new to this site and am somewhat confused as to what people mean by "a great beginner lead". I am what I consider to be a beginning leader. Mosquito Burrito was my third lead ever and my first 5.8. This climb was a blast. I found the move from the second to the third bolt to be thought provoking. I needed my left foot to be where my right one was, and spent some time figuring out how I was going to do this. The foothold was there but too small for me to match. I have followed at higher levels and am not sure I would have had the confidence to lead this pitch if I had not done so. The climb is well protected once you clip into the second bolt and bolts are close enough together to give beginning leaders the mental strengh to reach the top.
    By Jonathan. D.
    May 8, 2003

    Great Climb. First few moves felt like a 5.9 to me !!!
    By Matt Chan
    From: Boulder
    Jun 26, 2003

    Yep, I'm jumping on the bandwagon and calling it a 5.9 due to the thin moves. After a couple trips up and knowing where the friction lies and the crimps hide, one could argue an 8+ rating. For the onsight though, I'm sticking with .9. Fun route, nonetheless.
    By Gary Schmidt
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jun 27, 2004

    Just a fun route. Go do it if in the area. You can certainly make it harder or easier depending on the exact line. If you use the left dihedral to help with the first moves it is a lot easier. If you use the right open corner as you move higher, again much easier. I stuck to following the bolts fairly directly though was forced to move somewhat right of the bolts as i got higher before the big ledge in the middle as i am still fairly new leader. For me felt like a challenging 5.8. but very fun. Just take your time and you will find what you need.
    By Charlie Fried
    From: New York, NY
    Jul 3, 2006
    rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

    This route is awesome. It's a pretty sustained fun climb. The crux is definitely towards the bottom, but easily gotten past. I didn't notice that the anchor was wearing down. It's possible I just looked over it, but could it be that it was fixed?
    By Dave Stewart
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 8, 2006

    I climbed this today, mainly because I saw a bail 'biner on the 5th (or 6th or 4th?) bolt. Booty! If it is yours, and you can identify it, you can have it back.
    By Matt Gates
    From: Pinewood Springs, CO
    Aug 13, 2006
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    Good climb to practice foot work. Definitely more difficult towards the bottom, but the 8 rating is spot on.
    By Mike Jay
    Mar 6, 2007

    Great route. The Crux is definitely at the beginning. I made the mistake of using the dihedral crack on the left at first and had to downclimb to reach the bolt I missed. Other than that, the route is great! and the anchor at the top is a little rusted, but definitely in good enough condition. Pretty sustained after the beginning.
    By crankenstein
    May 14, 2007

    Rockfall warning! Beware of rock fall at the base of this climb. Sitting on the rock bench, my partner and I barely avoided disaster as several large (50-60 lbs) rock pummeled this area seemingly spontaneously from just right of the anchor. Fortunately no one was hurt, but several of the rocks were definitely widow makers. There was no wind or rain at the time and no one else was around so I have to assume a fair amount of instability above this climb. Use caution!!!
    By Ken Cangi
    From: Eldorado Springs, CO
    Oct 12, 2007
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    I see a lot of these routes being rated for elimination moves, recently.

    Betsy and I just did this route, today, and the path of least resistance, which essentially follows the bolt line within a foot or two on either side, is no harder than 5.8. There is no 5.9 or 10 move on the route unless you eliminate the holds. The only local route that I can compare this one to is "Deck Chairs on the Titanic", at Table Mountain, and Titanic is considerably harder at 5.9. And if anyone needs some perspective of what a consensus 10a slab feels like, go do Bolting for Glory, in Eldo.

    For beginning leaders, the only clip that concerns me is the second one above the opening roof. It's not a difficult clip, although the feet might feel insecure for a new leader, and blowing it would land you on the low angle slab below. That could be an ankle breaker. Once that bolt is clipped, the rest of the route is "well" protected and enjoyable.
    By D. Shaw
    Oct 7, 2008
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

    Ratings are subjective, naturally, and depend on the exact line you choose, your height, etc. But a 5.8 leader would not be happy with a 5.8 rating, I suspect. Definitely harder than the "Bowling ball and chain" route, which is supposedly 10a, but nowhere near as hard as "Splitting Hares," also supposedly 10a/b. Very fun pitch, worth doing, no matter what it is rated.
    By djoseph
    Apr 25, 2009

    What a great climb! Commenting here in part to say that I'm surprised at the 9+ ratings that this is receiving. I'd suggest 8+ ... perhaps 9- at most. To compare to some nearby climbs across the creek at Watermark, it seems to be harder than Road to Isengard (5.8) but slightly easier than The Memory of Trees (5.9).
    By Hamlet73
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jun 22, 2009

    I think the 5.9 rating is if you stay left and not use the right crack.

    Then it becomes more delicate and extremely enjoyable.
    By Paul Donald Andrews
    From: Nederland, Co.
    May 9, 2011
    rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    Climbed it yesterday on a beautiful, busy day. We got blown off a couple of harder climbs earlier, and I 'd always wanted to do it. Quality route; 5.8- use caution at the second clip. Really nice slab of rock with some great edges. The anchors may be due for some retrofitting. They are starting to look a little dated. Good lead to start to regain some confidence.
    By Andrew Shoemaker
    From: Olympia, WA
    Jun 2, 2011
    rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    Could use some new anchors soon. I would recommend rapping off.
    By prod. Kenny
    From: Boulder, Co
    Sep 6, 2012
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    I'd vote for a 5.9 if you go straight up the bolt line. The problem is that you can cheat too easily which downgrades the climb quite a bit.
    By Moritz B.
    Aug 15, 2013

    We climbed it today with a 50m rope. The rope is long enough but don´t forget to tie the rope to something.
    By Andrew Locke
    From: Louisville, CO
    Nov 18, 2013
    rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    This one was a little weird for me. It definitely depends on the line you take, and the line I took was probably a stiff 8+, maybe a 9-. That said, I think conditions play a role. We climbed it on a cold windy day, and numb hands definitely spice it up a little. On a warmer day, I could definitely see this going at 8. If you're comfortable on good friction and small seams for feet, then this route is pretty killer. If you're just breaking into 5.8, then this may not be the route for you
    By jarthur
    From: Westminster, CO
    Apr 30, 2014

    I'll jump on the comments bandwagon.... With that said, the crack feature is at most 2-ft to the right of the bolt line, which is HARDLY off route. Unless you have the reach of an infant, it would be assinine to call it off-route. By off-routing the crack, you've turned a quite enjoyable climb into an eliminate, and that BS only flies at Morrison. The crack is on. We could come up with every variation under the sun by saying, "it's 5.XX if you ignore this and 5.XX if you don't use that." Heck, you could call it 5.14 if you ignore all positive hands and feet and just use smears and slopers using nothing but vaseline for your hands in place of chalk.
    By Bruce Hildenbrand
    Feb 21, 2016

    On high traffic routes, the best solution is to use easily replaceable hardware such as two quicklinks or a quicklink and a rappel ring per bolt. Using hangers with rings means that when the rings wear you have to replace the entire hanger. That's not too difficult for wedge bolts as long as the threads on the end of the bolt are fine, but this can be a problem with Powers 5-piece bolts where it is difficult to get the correct torque on the bolts when re-tightening them.
    By Mark Rolofson
    Aug 11, 2017
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Bruce, it is simply not true that you have to replace the whole hanger when the ring wears out on a Fixe rap hanger. The hanger has enough room to add quicklinks with chains or winch hooks. I did this on the "Other One" at Sport Park.

    As for as this climb is concerned, I don't wander out right of the bolts on the line of least resistance, but rather climb straight up the face slightly left of the lower bolts & then right along the bolts. This makes for a nice 5.10a. The line of least resistance is 5.9. Because the route is closely bolted, there is no intimidation factor. This explains the MP consensus 5.8 rating to a large extent.
    By Bruce Hildenbrand
    Aug 11, 2017

    Mark,

    Sure, if you want a bunch of crap cluttering up the hanger, you don't need to replace the ring, but why put yourself in that situation in the first place? Just use replaceable hardware to begin with.

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