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Wooster Mountain State Park

Wooster Mountain State Park Rock Climbing 


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Location: 41.3546, -73.4688 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Morgan Patterson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Morgan Patterson on Dec 7, 2011
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Description 

Moses mountain located 2 miles north of the intersection of Rt. 7 and Rt. 35 contains a large eratic with some overhanging problems as well as a sizeable cliff which would require some cleaning but could be a good sport cliff for afternoons. The climbing here has not been developed but looks promising.

Getting There 

Park at the Wooster Mnt. State Park, cross Rt. 7 and walk towards Danbury. A steep hillside with lots of scree will break away from the road after about 1/4 mile. Follow this hillside into the woods and you will begin to see the boulder and beyond that the cliff line.

Climbing Season

For the Western Coastal Slope area.

Weather station 1.1 miles from here


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By Michael Schneider
Feb 19, 2017
THE RAVENS CREST AT SUGAR HOLLOW
.
Rock Climbing Photo: RAVEN'S CREST
RAVEN'S CREST


You can see the main block from the highway(Rt7)
there is a Parking-lot (across from the road cut) On The Same Side of the Highway As The Cliff,
do not park in the 'Gun Range' Lot & try to cross the highway.
(There is more rock on 'that' side, too.)

The Ives Trail (that can be short cut) or used to go to the top, is a few steps into the woods,
at the back of the lot. follow yellow blazes/Ives trail markers.

there are More than 35, short climbs (65+ Feet high)
Many of the 20 footers have been sent As well.
There is a large two tier nest, that is active please don't clean it off the ledges.
Climbs from 4th class to 5.12,( there are more climbs to be done)
Some Good gear routes in the 5.10 range as well as TR's

There was a lightning strike and fire, (7/15) that changed the soil permeability
causing seepaged. And reducing the anchoring options, somewhat.
( be careful if you climb into the 'Womb' wet footing & walls are now the normal conditions)

I have been climbing here for almost 20yrs,
climbs go on gear up to 5.11 , pre-place the gear on the 5.12s,
Top Ropes may need a point of pro. or 2 for 'directionals',
(to help reduced swing & for safe climbing)
I have often left built anchors, & stashed rope,
(Use@own Risk & are Not booty)
please, leave these alone

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