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Varnished Wall
Routes Sorted
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Circle of Benevolence T 
Crank Queenie T 
Disco Sucks T 
Double Crux T 
East Meets West T 
Mosaic T 
Presence of Grace T 
With Malice and Forethought T 


YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Mike Anderson and Jim Boone, October 1978.
Page Views: 317
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Apr 10, 2011

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This is a face route on good rock. Climb up past a bolt and continue to the top, using gear for protection.


This route starts at the base of Double Crux, but goes straight up.


one bolt and a few pieces of gear

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By Russ Walling
Oct 26, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Start to the left of Crank Queenie where the obvious broken left arching crack and flake system takes off. If you look up on the dark face you will see a bolt about 15ft up. Grab good flakes on the right edge of this dark face and head on up. A few nuts or small cams will fit nicely above. Sling anchor shared with Disco Sucks. Rap from there.

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