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Mosaic Tower - Don't Let the Bastards Grind You Down 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Mickey Guziak, Blake Stevens - Oct 29th 2016
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 428
Submitted By: Mickey Guziak on Oct 30, 2016

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The long corner.

Description 

This route climbs the steep side of Mosaic Tower. We thought it was a great route with almost all good rock except for one short section, which detracted it from being a 4 star route.

P1. Start up the chimney system with good gear until reaching a long, awesome, lower angle 5s and 6s crack. The crux is just before reaching an alcove. Belay off of either a #6 or #3s avoiding the guano, 5.9+.

P2. Squeeze up the semi-overhanging, semi-horizontal "chimney", passing one section of junk rock (the leader pulled on cams through this section) through a bulge and another grovelly squeeze up to the big ledge. You can belay off of some shrubs, or link P3 if rope drag isn't too bad, 5.10+ or 5.9 C1.

P3. Finish on the original route, stepping left and climbing easy slab to the anchor. The summit is just a short scramble away from here.

Location 

This is on the South side of Mosaic Tower. Approach from upper No Thoroughfare Canyon. Follow the obvious chimney system on the left side. One 70m rap gets you to the notch, then one more rap back to the gully and some easy scrambling gets you to the base.

Protection 

Doubles from #0.75-#6, triples of #3, runners, webbing for the anchor, and 1 70m rope.


Photos of Mosaic Tower - Don't Let the Bastards Grind You Down Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: P2.
P2.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mosaic Tower.
Mosaic Tower.

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