Type: Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches
FA: Mickey Guziak, Blake Stevens - Oct 29th 2016
Page Views: 1,439 total · 16/month
Shared By: Mickey Guziak on Oct 30, 2016
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This route climbs the steep side of Mosaic Tower. We thought it was a great route with almost all good rock except for one short section, which detracted it from being a 4 star route.

P1. Start up the chimney system with good gear until reaching a long, awesome, lower angle 5s and 6s crack. The crux is just before reaching an alcove. Belay off of either a #6 or #3s avoiding the guano, 5.9+.

P2. Squeeze up the semi-overhanging, semi-horizontal "chimney", passing one section of junk rock (the leader pulled on cams through this section) through a bulge and another grovelly squeeze up to the big ledge. You can belay off of some shrubs, or link P3 if rope drag isn't too bad, 5.10+ or 5.9 C1.

P3. Finish on the original route, stepping left and climbing easy slab to the anchor. The summit is just a short scramble away from here.

Location Suggest change

This is on the South side of Mosaic Tower. Approach from upper No Thoroughfare Canyon. Follow the obvious chimney system on the left side. One double rap gets you to the notch, then one more rap back to the gully on a single bolt (or hike around to front, shitty hike) and some easy scrambling gets you to the base.

Protection Suggest change

Doubles from #0.75-#6, triples of #3, runners, webbing for the anchor, and 2 x 60m ropes.

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