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|Location:||36.65997, -105.98228 View Map Incorrect?|
|Administrators:||Mike Howard, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)|
|Submitted By:||Mark Mathis on Jul 14, 2007|
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By Stuart Turner
Jan 26, 2009
|What's up with Holthouse Hallsack?|
By Eric Whitbeck
Jun 18, 2012
Anyone know if TBOL, or whatever the left most of the four steep routes is called, was also put up by Doug and Lee? The first bolt is suspect, the second is a joke, and the large flake which looks like it would eat up a big cam is a bit hollow. Its fine for climbing but putting a cam back there is about as safe as the button head below. FA party opposed to upgrading the hardware? No additional gear and same placements, just modern?
By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jun 15, 2015
I climbed most of "Holthouse Hallsack" recently, it is pretty good. Look for fixed pins and a small right facing corner to the right of "Holthouse to Hell Direct" and about 10' to the right of a bolted line ("Bolts to Nowhere"'s direct start, called "In Step"); this is all left of "Dirty Black Nightmare". The start is down and left of the first fixed pin and looks harder than it is. A #0.4 or #0.5 cam in an overlap protects very cool moves to the pin. Easy crack climbing passes a 2nd pin, then techy 5.11+ slab climbing past 2 1/4" bolts to reach 2 fixed pins side by side in a horizontal seam. From these pins, I wasn't sure whether to go straight up on thin slab or angle right along on the seam. In either case, you'll hit the "Crying in the Rain" ramp and see another bolt up ahead. It started hailing hard so I lowered off (I suspect I was done with most of the hardest climbing, but I don't know for sure). I do hope to try it again.
Stuart Turner wrote:
What's up with Holthouse Hallsack?
That section of rock between Serpentine Crack and Clean Green Dream is pretty thin yet still steep, and contains some of the longest, most challenging climbs at TP. It's also a bit confusing, as the lines have multiple starts and variations, and both guidebooks have errors/omissions which makes it even more intimidating. Here's my take on the routes in this section of cliff, interpreted between the 2 books and some comments posted by others on this site (L->R):
-Serpent Face (5.10): left of Serpentine Crack, mislocated in one of the books
-Serpentine Crack (5.8)
-Learn to Forget (5.11-): start in Serpentine Crack, step right after 20' and follow the line of bolts closest to Serpentine Crack (you may also be able to get here from the Direct Start as well)
-Holthouse to Hell (5.11-): original route - from 15' up in Serpentine Crack, step right passing one bolt, and follow the straight-up line
-Holthouse to Hell Direct Start (5.11): begins about 10' right of Serpentine Crack with 2 obvious low bolts
-Bolts to Nowhere (5.12): begin as for "Holthouse to Hell Direct", but angle up and right passing bolts with some gear
-In Step (5.12): based on a comment on the Techweenie page, this is the direct start that joins Bolts to Nowhere, look for bolts about 10' left of Holthouse in a Haulbag
-Holthouse in a Haulbag (5.11+): look for pins, figure out how to get to them, this follows a vertical crack feature in a shallow R-facing corner
-Cryin' in the Rain (5.9): a crack system that angles left on a ramp system, listed in RC:NM; finish by joining Holthouse in a Haulbag for its last bolt, or you can cross farther left or a ramp system and finish on the next bolted line to the left, or go even farther to Holthouse to Hell's chickenheads at its end (probably easiest finish)
-Dirty Black Nightmare (5.11): 3 obvious low bolts, joins Black Streak
-Black Streak (5.10) & Clean Green Dream (5.9)
Could be wrong on some of this, will edit if I learn more. And no I didn't figure out the 5.12 slab cruxes yet.