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Mosaic Rock

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Baby Cakes T 
Better Red Than Dead T 
Bienvenidos T 
Black Streak T 
Chicken Heads T 
Chicken Shit T 
Clean Green Dream T 
Cryin' in the Rain T 
Dirty Black Nightmare T 
Dirty Diagonal T 
Dung Alley T 
Fine Little Line S 
Five Years After T 
Fried Chickens T 
Holthouse to Hell T 
Jug or Not S 
Mama Jugs T 
Ocho Diamentes (Tech-No-Star) S 
Rite of Summer Dreams T 
Seaman Girl T 
Serpent Face T 
Serpentine Crack T 
Summer Dreams T 
Suprise-Suprise T 
Techtonics T,S 
Techweenie S 
Threshold S 
To Bolt on Lead or Not to Bolt (TBOL) T 
Unknown (Left of Baby Cakes) T,S 
Unknown (Right of Mama Jugs) T,S 
Walking Dread T 

Mosaic Rock Rock Climbing 

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Location: 36.65997, -105.98228 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 15,886
Administrators: Mike Howard, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Mark Mathis on Jul 14, 2007

69° | 45°

64° | 39°

61° | 33°

61° | 33°

62° | 36°

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Busy day on the south face of Mosaic Rock.

Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. MORE INFO >>>


The highest concentration of routes at Tres Piedras ascend the lovely south face of Mosaic Rock. This 200 ft tall cliff offers many excellent (mostly) single pitch climbs protected by bolts and gear.

Getting There 

Walk north from the parking area, past South Rock to the base of the formation.

Climbing Season

Weather station 1.1 miles from here

31 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',18],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Mosaic Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Mosaic Rock:
Dirty Diagonal   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   
Chicken Heads   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 200'   
Chicken Shit   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   
Mama Jugs   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 190'   
Serpentine Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Fried Chickens   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 220'   
Clean Green Dream   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 140'   
Five Years After   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Unknown (Right of Mama Jugs)   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, Sport, 57'   
Better Red Than Dead   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 180'   
Serpent Face   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   
Holthouse to Hell   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches, 220'   
Techweenie   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Sport, 75'   
Techtonics   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R     Trad, Sport, 75'   
To Bolt on Lead or Not to Bolt (TBOL)   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Mosaic Rock

Featured Route For Mosaic Rock
Rock Climbing Photo: George Perkins on the sharp end on Better Red Than...

Better Red Than Dead 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13  New Mexico : Taos Area : ... : Mosaic Rock
Quintessential TP climbing with the crux moves above your gear make "Better Red Than Dead" a bit intimidating. My first time I was a bit spooked, a couple more recent times, it didn't seem as bad. One of the more rewarding 5.10s here.Face climb up to right-angling crack. Step onto the slab above to clip the 1st bolt, slab up and right to the 2nd bolt. From here, sneak up 5.10 slab/face straight up to a seam (no pro there), then a thank-god left-angling finger crack. You probably don't want ...[more]   Browse More Classics in New Mexico

Photos of Mosaic Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The super-long approach to Mosaic, as seen from th...
BETA PHOTO: The super-long approach to Mosaic, as seen from th...

Comments on Mosaic Rock Add Comment
Show which comments
By Stuart Turner
Jan 26, 2009
What's up with Holthouse Hallsack?
By Eric Whitbeck
Jun 18, 2012
Anyone know if TBOL, or whatever the left most of the four steep routes is called, was also put up by Doug and Lee? The first bolt is suspect, the second is a joke, and the large flake which looks like it would eat up a big cam is a bit hollow. Its fine for climbing but putting a cam back there is about as safe as the button head below. FA party opposed to upgrading the hardware? No additional gear and same placements, just modern?
By George Perkins
From: The Dungeon, NM
Jun 15, 2015
Stuart Turner wrote:
What's up with Holthouse Hallsack?
I climbed most of "Holthouse Hallsack" recently, it is pretty good. Look for fixed pins and a small right facing corner to the right of "Holthouse to Hell Direct" and about 10' to the right of a bolted line ("Bolts to Nowhere"'s direct start, called "In Step"); this is all left of "Dirty Black Nightmare". The start is down and left of the first fixed pin and looks harder than it is. A #0.4 or #0.5 cam in an overlap protects very cool moves to the pin. Easy crack climbing passes a 2nd pin, then techy 5.11+ slab climbing past 2 1/4" bolts to reach 2 fixed pins side by side in a horizontal seam. From these pins, I wasn't sure whether to go straight up on thin slab or angle right along on the seam. In either case, you'll hit the "Crying in the Rain" ramp and see another bolt up ahead. It started hailing hard so I lowered off (I suspect I was done with most of the hardest climbing, but I don't know for sure). I do hope to try it again.

That section of rock between Serpentine Crack and Clean Green Dream is pretty thin yet still steep, and contains some of the longest, most challenging climbs at TP. It's also a bit confusing, as the lines have multiple starts and variations, and both guidebooks have errors/omissions which makes it even more intimidating. Here's my take on the routes in this section of cliff, interpreted between the 2 books and some comments posted by others on this site (L->R):
-Serpent Face (5.10): left of Serpentine Crack, mislocated in one of the books
-Serpentine Crack (5.8)
-Learn to Forget (5.11-): start in Serpentine Crack, step right after 20' and follow the line of bolts closest to Serpentine Crack (you may also be able to get here from the Direct Start as well)
-Holthouse to Hell (5.11-): original route - from 15' up in Serpentine Crack, step right passing one bolt, and follow the straight-up line
-Holthouse to Hell Direct Start (5.11): begins about 10' right of Serpentine Crack with 2 obvious low bolts
-Bolts to Nowhere (5.12): begin as for "Holthouse to Hell Direct", but angle up and right passing bolts with some gear
-In Step (5.12): based on a comment on the Techweenie page, this is the direct start that joins Bolts to Nowhere, look for bolts about 10' left of Holthouse in a Haulbag
-Holthouse in a Haulbag (5.11+): look for pins, figure out how to get to them, this follows a vertical crack feature in a shallow R-facing corner
-Cryin' in the Rain (5.9): a crack system that angles left on a ramp system, listed in RC:NM; finish by joining Holthouse in a Haulbag for its last bolt, or you can cross farther left or a ramp system and finish on the next bolted line to the left, or go even farther to Holthouse to Hell's chickenheads at its end (probably easiest finish)
-Dirty Black Nightmare (5.11): 3 obvious low bolts, joins Black Streak
-Black Streak (5.10) & Clean Green Dream (5.9)

Could be wrong on some of this, will edit if I learn more. And no I didn't figure out the 5.12 slab cruxes yet.

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