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09. Guide's Wall
Routes Sorted
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Alpine Spring T 
Beautiful Garbage T 
Common Ground T 
Cowboy Bebop S 
Crozier, The T 
Firecracker T 
Jerry's Corner T 
Kuller, The T 
Madam Butterfly T 
Million Muppet March, The S 
Mos Eisley T 
Real Folk Blues, The T 
Scarecrow T 
Sparkler T 
Tin Man T 
Treasure Island T 

Mos Eisley 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Ryan Howes, spring 2012
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 126
Submitted By: Ben Townsend on May 28, 2014

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Description 

Move up the short right-leaning crack, then step left onto the face of the buttress and follow a wandering line of least resistance up to a very puzzling steep exit on the left. The anchor is a few feet up and right on a slab. "A wretched hive of scum and villainy," according to Obi-Wan Kenobi, but the quality of the climbing is much better than the appearance would suggest.

Location 

This route climbs the front of the dirty-looking buttress just uphill from the large, left-facing corner of Treasure Island. Start a few feet uphill from a large oak tree, near a short right-leaning crack system.

Protection 

Light rack to 3". The gear placements are tricky, but solid -- mostly in pockets or horizontals that are hard to see from below.


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