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YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Vaino Kodas, 2002
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,027
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on May 5, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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BETA PHOTO: Plotinus Wall, left side.

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  • Description 

    Morpheus is a long right-facing corner on the left side of Plotinus Wall. Climb in from the left, clip a bolt and climb up to the start of the corner. Climb up the corner past two bolts, placed mid-size gear and a gain a ledge. Clip a bolt and make a hard move up to a small ledge and a steep headwall. Clip the first of four bolts and climb steep rock up to a two-bolt anchor. Great route!


    8 bolts and mid-size gear will get you to a two-bolt anchor. Bring a 60m rope; a 50m rope isn't long enough to lower!

    Photos of Morpheus Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Mr. D himself on the lower half of the climb.
    Mr. D himself on the lower half of the climb.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Routes on the far left side of Plotinus Wall.
    BETA PHOTO: Routes on the far left side of Plotinus Wall.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Morpheus

    Comments on Morpheus Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 3, 2007
    By Andy Moore
    Oct 8, 2002

    This is a nice long pitch with a variety of climbing. Between bolts 3 and 4 in the corner, I placed a few cams ranging from about a #.4 to a #1 Camalot. (I think that a #.5 and a #.75 would be particularly useful.) I also placed a finger-sized stopper in the easy-but-runout section between bolts 1 and 2.

    A 60-meter rope is useful, as ours just reached back to the base of the climb while lowering, although this depends on where your belayer stands on the steeply sloping ground below the route.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Jul 16, 2003
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    Good route that starts a little grungy and maybe loose, depending upon the path taken. The route soon improves. The other day I saw "medium gear" scribbled on a topo, so I took 1.5-3" gear. OK, so medium really meant .75"-2". With a few big stoppers and TCU's to 2" you can protect it well. It's a cool route, too.

    Borderline 2*. If the bottom 30' were more like the rest, it would be a better line, but it is very worth doing.

    I just have a really hard time saying that this is harder than Left Wing, let alone Pegasus, Kangaroof, or FM... I can't grade it 11c. I understand that the grades are all questionable, but the ones that have held their grade for 20+ years should be the benchmark.
    By Guy H.
    From: Fort Collins CO
    Sep 14, 2003
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    11c felt about right for this route. Maybe I [missed] something at the crux. You can get a good #5-6 nut at the crux traverse to the left.
    By BL
    Sep 14, 2003

    grade depends on how high up you are at the crux, if you are higher, it is harder, if you a lucky enough or smart enough to reach lower at the crux it is easier. This probably explains the 11a/11c opinions


    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Sep 14, 2003
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    I thought for a little while about how to say this without sounding like a wise guy, but I think no matter how I say it, some people are going to take it that way. I am serious and not trying to start a flame war, but isn't the climb an 11a if there is an 11a way to do it and anybody doing it a harder way is just making their ascent harder, not the route? From my point of view, skipping crux holds doesn't make a route harder, it makes the ascent of it harder. Maybe I am missing what you are saying, or maybe somehow this explains the differences in the grades I've been feeling between sport or trad lately. That maybe sport grades are made on the onsight by people used to redpointing?
    By Greaser
    Sep 15, 2003

    To me, the grade is just an approximation. It lets me know if I should stay away or get on it. Some days everything feels easy and some days I have to work a "red point" on the trail to the climbs. Depends on everything.
    By Ken Leiden
    From: Boulder, CO
    Sep 23, 2003

    The NW Corner of the Bastille has three variations in Rossiter's guide to do the crux headwall varying from 11b to 10c -- the left and center variations are just a couple feet apart. No one has a problem with that. Hopefully both variations for Morpheus will show up in the topo of the new guidebook.
    By Bruce Pech
    Oct 18, 2003
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

    I'd call the "low" crux traverse left from the corner to the ledge .11b. But, since it's only one or two moves, .11a makes sense too.

    For me, the most enjoyable climbing was on the final headwall. It's never harder than .10c(?), but consistently thought-provoking.

    The 30+' corner between the 3rd and 4th bolts is well protected with two or three pieces chosen from 6 - 9 Stoppers to .75 - 1 1/2 Friends (or similarly sized Aliens, Camalots, etc.)

    This and The Daily Grind are probably the two nicest climbs uphill from Sleepless in Boulder.
    By Kirk Woerner
    Sep 10, 2004

    For some reason I found this REALLY hard. I simply could not get over to the good jug out on the arette even though it was SO close. Usually at this grade I can at least do the moves after working it out but not this time, and I stayed on the low path. Was I missing a backstep or something? Do you just go for the jug or slap the [arete] a bit first?

    BTW, I agree that just above the crux is a good bit of really cool juggy but pumpy and thought provoking climbing.
    By Ivan Rezucha
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    Sep 10, 2004

    Kirk Woerner said: For some reason I found this REALLY hard...Do you just go for the jug or slap the [arete] a bit first?

    I remember leaning out off of a decent hand hold, pasting my left foot on the wall and lunging sideways to the jug. My partner, Chuck, who is shorter, got his left foot to stick on something and did it more or less statically.
    By Leo Paik
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Jan 15, 2006

    Heard from a solid source, DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS WITH A 50m ROPE!
    By claytown
    From: Boulder, CO
    Mar 25, 2007

    Lots of fun. Take a red Alien and maybe a #1 or #2 Camalot if you don't want to run out the 5.7ish corner to the crux. It was easy and I didn't really think about only having a red alien 20 feet below, but maybe it is smart to have a bigger piece.

    The crux move out left to the arete was sweet. To top it off the mid 10 face at the end is a great finish! Agree with everyone else, do not climb this with anything less than 60m rope.
    By Paul Hunnicutt
    From: Boulder, CO
    Nov 3, 2007
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

    So, am I the only one who thought an all points off dyno to the little shelf out left on the arete was the way to go? After 2 tries of trying to get there statically the dyno worked really well and was super fun! Afterwards on TR, I just reached out several feet above the shelf and used the arete with the thin crack as a sidepull for my right hand (instead of the dyno). I placed 3 mid sized cams for pro, which seemed just fine. Agreed the top section is consistent and can pump you out quickly. And yes 60m rope mandatory...even with one you just barely hit the ground so be careful raping or lowering. I would give this 4 stars if it was completely it is the plethora of rests break it up too much. Still a great climb though.

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