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Moroccan Snake Charmer 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 25'
Original:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jan Salinas & David Phillips
Page Views: 785
Submitted By: Evan Johnson on Apr 7, 2011  with updates from K. Bethke and 1 more

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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BETA PHOTO: Moroccan Snake Charmer is the route on the left si...

Description 

Climbs up the left face of an arete feature.

Good quality slab-like climbing through well placed bolts.

Location 

One route left of Sidewinder. Starts with overhang at the base. Use big block slightly to right of first bolt.

Protection 

5 bolts to a chain anchor.


Comments on Moroccan Snake Charmer Add Comment
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By Sergio Bandiera
Mar 7, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Start is harder than 5.8 and climbing the left face of the arete requires balance.
More difficult than Antivenin, probably 5.9
By Robert Michael
Oct 23, 2016

I agree with Sergio. I've heard the guidebook calls this 5.8, but it's harder than the other 5.8 routes here. Get on this one and expect 5.9.

ETA: I saw someone lead this and then clip the anchors of Antivenin. That might explain why some call this 5.8, as it's easier and more intuitive to reach those anchors.

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