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The Middle Ages
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arbalest T 
Bertilak T 
Book of Wasps T 
Edge of an Age T 
Gnarnian Renaissance T 
Green Knight T 
Guy in the Gulley T 
Morning Star T 
Trebuchet T 
Turn the Page T 
Two Handed Flail T 
White Hawk T 

Morning Star 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Trevor Bowman 9/27/15
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 34
Submitted By: Trevor Bowman on Jul 17, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: Morning Star is the red line. Two Handed Flail is ...

Description 

The morning star was Medieval weapon, a spiked mace of sorts.

This shares the belay ledge and 2 bolt anchor with Two Handed Flail. Jugs lead to a stance below dual seam/shallow corners. Stem up these using occasional face features and locks. When the seams diverge, head left up some great fingerlocks onto a tenuous, steep slab/ramp to a ledge and an easier finish.

Although unfortunately short, the rock is great on this, and the pro is as well until it gets a bit spicy through the ramp section.

Location 

In the black, water-stained rock between Bertilak and Green Knight. Use Darren's beta to locate the top of Bertilak. Morning Star tops out about 40' left (west) of the Bertilak pillar. Rap off of assorted short juniper/pine.

Protection 

In BD sizes:
(2X) .2, .3
(1X) .4-.75
small stoppers
2 bolt belay anchor at start


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