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Lower Infirmary Slabs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Acts of Contrition S,TR 
Look Ma No Hands TR 
Mentally Infirm T,S,TR 
Morning Oyster T,TR 
Plague Boys S,TR 
Short But Sweet T 

Morning Oyster 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 861
Submitted By: Jim Cormier on Jan 1, 2001  with updates from JFM

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BETA PHOTO: This route typically starts down where the trail m...

Description 

This is the easiest line so far on this formation.

Per JFM: the easiest line on the formation, this route probably isn't for a new leader at the grade. After clipping the solitary first bolt, there are some touchy moves, then it's (possibly) run out over a tricky-to-protect, shallow crack before reaching easier ground. Traverse left along the rounded shelf to the shared anchors (again, it is fairly runout).

Protection 

Trad protection up to 2.5", the route can also be top roped from 2 bolt anchor at the top.

Per JFM: bring one draw for the sole bolt. A questionable #0 Friend (~BD #0.3 or c3 #2) and a medium offset brassie (#6 DMM) "protect" the middle section. After that, a #0.5 Friend (~BD 0.4) fits nicely into a crack before the run to the anchor. Perhaps an offset cam (Metolius blue/yellow?) could be useful in place of the #0 Friend.


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By chrisp
From: boulder
Feb 20, 2011

Yellow and green Aliens after the first bolt- after that it's much easier. Traverse hard left to anchors that are visible from the ground.

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