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Morning Glory 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: FA: Henry Barber, 1973, FFA: Antoine Savelli, Teri Savelli, and Scott Kennett, 1985
Season: year-round
Page Views: 622
Submitted By: Antoine Savelli on Jul 26, 2013

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Description 

This was first put up in 1973 by Henry Barber, it was known back then as the Aid Crack. Then it was freed by Antoine in 1985. Stunning! Use tennis shoe traverse for a quick approach, or Crescent Loon, 5a or 5.8 to big ledge for first pitch.

The second pitch is 7c/7c+ or 5.12d. It is splitter crack on a mirror wall, unbelievably beautiful rock. It has some difficult crack-climbing with a face crux and more but much easier 6c or 5.11c thin hands to double bolted belay left.

Rappel 140 feet.

Location 

This is on the Main Ophir Wall on the the mirror-like Neanderthal Wall. It is a must do!

Protection 

10 clips, RPs to double set of Friends up to #3 Friend.


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By Bryan Gilmore
From: New England
Mar 31, 2014
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

Don't underestimate the "much easier" .11c thin hands to the top. I was fighting a good pump up there, and it didn't feel "easy"! Awesome, easily one of the best pitches in SO. CO.

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