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Penitente - Entrance Area
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Morning Glory 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 25'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 734
Submitted By: Tim Waystrong on Sep 3, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Very fun climb on good huecos and good crimps.

Closed October 12th-15th, 2017 MORE INFO >>>


Start off on some good huecos, and climb up through some crimps. Get a good pinch with your right hand and reach up to a nice crimp to clip the last bolt. Grab a crimp 2 feet above your head, clip the anchors from there or go up to the jugs at the top.


This is the first bolted route on the path on the right hand side of the trail. Look for a crack right next to it on the right side and Mysterious Redhead is the bolted line to the left of this.


4 bolts to 2 bolt anchor.

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By Tim Waystrong
From: New Hampshire
Sep 3, 2011

If anyone knows if this is right or who the FA was, let me know and I'll put it in there.
By Mike Anderson
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Sep 26, 2011

I think this is called "Morning Glory".
By William Mondragon
Feb 10, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This is .11a if you do this shit right! No cheating with that wall off to your right!
By Tim Waystrong
From: New Hampshire
Jan 26, 2013

I did this climb when I was out there, it didn't feel 11a to me, and I didn't you the shit on the right.
By Izzy K.
From: Boulder, CO
May 30, 2016

The guidebook doesn't describe this route, I think this is why people get it confused with the 11a to the left of it (the book describes the 11a/Mysterious Redhead as the first bolted line from the entrance). Mountain Project's description of Morning Glory is correct.

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