|Original:||YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b [details]|
|Submitted By:||Will Cobb on May 19, 2006|
|Comments on Morning Glory 4th Class Route||Add Comment|
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By Dave Spies
From: Sedona, AZ
Feb 26, 2012
|This is a great summit, and a great place to moon the helicopters :) Ropes would be overkill. I have taken many non climbers up this route. All of the climbing sections are 15-20 feet long off huge ledges and only require a good spotter for the non climbers.|
By Derek Field
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 2, 2016
rating: 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
A very enjoyable scramble. The actual "climbing" starts from the saddle on the east side of the spire (between Morning Glory and Jap Head) with a low-angled class-4 slab. If you've brought a rope, bring it to the top of this slab and stash it there, because this is the point of rappel.
From the top of the slab, pick your own adventure along the ridge. Below the summit on the left (east) side is a fun and secure class-4 chimney section off a fat ledge. Beyond that it's an easy, photogenic ramble to the tippy top.
Best way to descend (IMO): Retrace your steps down the ridge to where you stashed your rope and locate two bolts above the initial low-angled slab. Two full-length rappels (knot your ends on the second rap!) with a single 60-m rope take you all the way down a prominent, blocky corner on the east face, depositing you partway down the bushy approach gully. This saves having to downclimb the initial slab and the upper part of gully below the saddle.