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Morning After 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: Jim Andress, Doug Tompkins 1964
Page Views: 2,679
Submitted By: JSH on May 28, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (65)
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P1 of Morning After. From where the climber is he...


P1 is a bit ... necky.

Start just left of the blocky chimney/corner of Bloody Mary. Climb up leftwards to a right-facing flake and clip a pin (which can be backed up, but the flake is also loose). Make a few 5.8 face moves above this stance to another set of right-facing flakes (these are also loose, and groundfall is a probability). Traverse left towards another set of right-facing flakes, up this past a small 'hang, then traverse right to the set of trees above Bloody Mary. 5.8-

P2 turns the overhang above and to the right of the belay trees. Continue up to the GT ledge. 5.7. Big 2-3" cams useful for anchor at the GT ledge above the described line.

P3: Climb up to a small overhang, passing it on the right. Layback the flake in a groove, and up to the clifftop. 5.8-

From the clifftop, walkoff via Uberfall Descent. From the GT, you can rappel in two ropes over Drunkard's Delight, to climber's left.


Morning After climbs the face just left of the Bloody Mary, and 40' right of Drunkard's Delight.


Standard Gunks rack; one mediocre pin.

Photos of Morning After Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The ropes are on Bloody Mary (5.6);  Morning After...
The ropes are on Bloody Mary (5.6); Morning After...

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 27, 2017
By SethG
Oct 27, 2010

We only did the first two pitches, but I thought they were both very nice.

I led P1, and I think I disagree with Julie's comments above about it being necky. I didn't find the first shallow right-facing corner (just below the pin) to be loose. I got what I thought was a bomber nut and a cam almost at the same level as the pin. Then you can easily move up to the next stance before the crux move and place something in the awkward little down-facing, flaring pod. This was the one spot where I worried a bit about the gear, but I thought the cam was good. After the next move the pro is abundant and solid.

Pitch two is really fun, the moves out to the overhang and over it are nothing; the crux is the thin face-climbing above. A very nice 5.7 pitch.
Oct 27, 2010

If I remember right (been a while) I found that I *had* to step up - basically the crux - before I could reach gear into the down-facing pod thing; but my taller partner gets to place that gear from the much better stance below? That's what feels necky to me - that step puts you at or above where the last gear might keep you off the ground. Maybe the neckiness is a bit height-dependent.
By SethG
Oct 27, 2010

I'm short and I could reach it by moving my feet up just a little left of the piton, placing the gear, and then stepping back right and up.
By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Oct 16, 2011
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13

Definitely enough gear to prevent ground fall at and after the first piton. Unfortunately, in true Gunks style (also see Drunkard's Delight), you have to climb 10-20 feet to get your first piece in.

On pitch 3 there's a large, VERY loose block below the first small overhang that should be completely ignored and not touched. For the move to the right of it you can, CAREFULLY, use the right side of the block to step up, being high aware to not move your foot during the move. The right side of the block is wider and won't tip as easily as the left.
From: Boston, MA
Apr 30, 2012

Found p3 very interesting, that VERY loose block could kill somebody, enormous and could be knocked out with your pinky. DONT TOUCH THAT THING! The third pitch also starts with very minimal gear before you get to the flakes and start to move right. A bit of an adventure but I thought it was very fun!
By SethG
Apr 8, 2013

Linking pitch one of Bloody Mary with pitch two of Morning After is a three-star experience, and the link-up makes for one of the best 5.7's in the Gunks, in my opinion. Non-stop good climbing with a variety of techniques involved.
By Sardocius
From: Old Lyme, CT
Nov 12, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

Tried the first pitch yesterday and ended up finishing on Bloody Mary due to a lack of confidence in the pro. Once arriving at the flake at the bottom of the right facing corner I did not see any pro with the exception of the flake which I believe could rip out if one were to fall on it. Any thoughts on this? It would be very near a ground fall at that point (I think).
Nov 13, 2014

Once you get up to the right-facing corner up higher, the key thing is that the climbing eases off by a grade or 3 just one move higher. If you've gotten that far, you're quite unlikely to fall, and, well -- don't, because you're pretty darn high above your last -decent- gear. There's decent gear in a horizontal one move higher (that still depends on the flake itself), and then you make a few moves left to a stance.
By Systematic
Nov 19, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

Nov 19th: I climbed Morning After P1 + Bloody Mary P2, which is a nice straight line with no rope drag. Makes for a really nice varied climb with interesting situations and fun gear placement opportunities. It rivals Son of Easy O in climbing quality, but falls short in gear and consistency. Anchor situation at the ledge sucks.

Gear beta:
Big cams 2-3" useful for anchor at the GT ledge above the described line.

December 7th: I went back and did Bloody Mary P1 into Morning after P2,P3. The upper pitches of Morning after are also great. P2 ~5.7 and P3 a fun 5.8-. Microcams handy for P2+P3. For some reason I couldn't make out a "flake in a groove." There is a slabby white face with a thin crack separating what looks like two big boulders, one slightly more protruding on the left. Is that the layback flake??

Also, the small pine at the base of P3 appears to be recently crushed by a microwave-size rock. Maybe that the large loose block described above was finally released.
By Andy Weinmann
From: Silver Spring, MD
Jul 14, 2017
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

A really fun route I've done several times but I'm surprised no one mentions the section on P2 that's PG13 and it's the crux of that pitch (~5.7ish). You're on the exposed slab up above and out of sight of the belayer. You get a pin that you can back-up with a finger-sized cam and then make a series of slabby moves for about 10' to the next reliable placement. A fall anywhere in there and you're going for a good ride...hope your belayer is ready!
By SethG
Jul 15, 2017

That second pitch is one of my favorite 5.7 pitches in the Gunks; I've done it several times though not that recently. I agree you have to keep it together for the crux move with bomber gear at your feet. But isn't it just that one move, or maybe two? 10 feet is an exaggeration, unless my memory is faulty.
By Les Owen
Jul 27, 2017

Re: pitch 2, which the Gunks App now basically calls the second pitch of Bloody Mary now, it's a great pitch, and as Andy said, it is about 10 feet before you get another piece, but after the first two moves, they ease up a little.

But that's not why I'm posting! Reason I'm posting is on the GT ledge, there is a significant looming hazard. The giant block upon which a pine tree once stood tall has shifted, likely from what looks like erosion beneath it. It is now held up precariously by a jenga-like structure of smaller (though still quite large) blocks, and the pine tree on top has toppled over and is leaning on another large-ish tree on the GT ledge. It seems only a matter of time before those blocks erode out, and that whole pile comes tumbling down. It will be pretty destructive when it does. Be very aware when you're up there. I'll try to post pics.

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