|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 170'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|FA:||Richard DuMais and Steve Komito, 1987.|
|Submitted By:||Stich on Aug 21, 2005|
|Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Mornin'||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 4, 2012
Fun pitch of 5.7 in an alpine setting. If you climb Notchtop via this route, it will go very quickly. Many people would be comfortable scrambling all the way to the 5.7 and only roping up for that one pitch. Careful of loose rock in the meadow though.
To find the rap descent cut straight west to the low point of the Notch directly above the standard Spiral Route. When you go through the notch, walk a few steps out right and look left at the 3rd class scramble to the spire summit. It's very easy to see the 3-pin anchor from there. It's a fast and easy way to get to the bolted rap line.
Next time I go up there, I'm going to take everything and complete the circuit to the Continential Divide trail then hike down the Flattop trail. Would be a fun, cruiser alpine tour.
By William Thiry
From: Lakewood, CO
Jun 27, 2016
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
|Good route description, Stich, and great climbing. The initial 40-foot crack is excellent, and I'd give it a 7+ because it feels a bit difficult with an alpine pack at 12,000 feet. We belayed on top of that to reduce rope drag and take advantage of and excellent belay ledge. The 2nd part of the route has a few options. The mossy corner crack described above by Stich has rotten rock and is runout at the top, so I tried the crack system 6 feet to the right, and although it looks/starts out a bit suspect, it becomes quite a nice crack system to climb with better rock and protection than the left-hand crack. Great way to finish up the Spiral route.|