Mormon Rocks Rock Climbing
Decent looking slab. Was only able to spot 2 bolts...
Visible from nearby Interstate 15 these large sandstone formations having been eyed by passing climbers for decades and despite the ease of access and proximity to a large population of climbers very little documented climbing has gone on here.
Numerous old bolts and the odd piton scattered about suggest climbing has gone on here since the 1950's but very little information is known about the early pioneers. These days few climbers frequent the area and popular activities here include scrambling, rappelling and off-roading.
The rock is a variable quality sandstone conglomerate not unlike that found at Devil's Punchbowl and Texas Canyon. Rock quality can vary from formation to formation and even on different sides of the same formation with the north-facing slabs tending to have the best quality rock.
***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone at Mormon Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB AT MORMON ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (granite, limestone and plastic) nearby.
Drive Interstate 15, exit Hwy 138 (Abiel Barron Memorial Hwy) heading west at Cajon Junction. Cross under the railroad bridge and turn right just past the turnoff for Lone Pine Canyon Road. Those coming from the west on Hwy 138 will want to reverse the directions.
Climbing Season For the San Bernardino Mountains area.
Weather station 6.0 miles from here
3 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Mormon Rocks
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Mormon Rocks
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Mormon Rocks:
Featured Route For Mormon Rocks
Sandstone Balls 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c CA
: San Bernardino Mountains
: ... : Mormon Slab
P1) Climb easy terrain to the first bolt about 30' up and then continue up the waterstreak using pebbles and cobbles past a distinct crux at the 7th bolt to finish on a large ledge with a small tree. P2) Continue up past 5 more bolts and then run it out on easy terrain to a large ledge with another set of anchors. It's easy to combine both pitches into one but the first pitch is the best.To descend make two single rope raps to the ground with a 60 meter rope. If doing just the first pitch a 60 ...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
The view from the I-15, Mormon Rocks
Convenient parking, Mormon Rocks
Sage brush in front of the Northern Formations.
Northbound train, Mormon Rocks
Happy faces, Mormon Rocks
Looking to the north, Mormon Rocks