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More Fun Than Bubblewrap 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 25'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Tommy Blackwell, Evan Jackson, Sean O' Grady
Page Views: 137
Submitted By: APasquel on Apr 13, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

Route was first led on trad in 1998 by Mike Klein. It's a roof crack that can be plugged up by big gear. However, there are now three bolts to protect it...I give it a PG-13 rating because it is mildly runout between bolts 2 and 3. And if you blow the clip, this route will hurt you pretty bad! If you happen to carry some hand size cams (maybe #2 or #3, you maybe able to protect the mild runout). But to make it fun, just run it out...In Hogge's guidebook, it states the climb starts to left on a chimney up to the ledge (dirty too) and walk back the roof, or you can direct start on face below ledge for a bouldery start up to ledge. Once you reach back of the cave, find first bolt, and either lay back and traverse left or hand jam across...I've done both and they are both effective. Crux is definitely pulling the lip...there are a few techniques you can employ to reach anchors...I hand jammed and it hurt like hell...the stone is sharp inside those cracks. Though the route is only 20-25' up from the ground to anchors...it climbs longer since the routes starts at the back of the roof.

Location 

Very far right end of Insanity wall. The roof cave is immediately left of the Dreamer's wall. Route is less than 5 minutes from parking lot.

Protection 

3 bolts + anchors


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