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A Frog in My Hand T 
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Don't Forget My Boots! T 
Good God, a Cow Cut in Two! T 
Hang On, Kid! T 
I Could Eat a Horse T 
I Wanna Be Your Pussy Cat T 
More Catastrophic than 'Armageddon' T 
One Year Later (Un An Plus Tard) T 
Putrid Rat T 
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What Have You Done with My Walls? T 
What on Earth? TR 

More Catastrophic than 'Armageddon' 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 95'
Original:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c R [details]
FA: Jeff Mahoney, Greg Bok, and Rich Beckett, 4/19/14
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 229
Submitted By: Jeff Mahoney on Apr 20, 2014

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Description 

The furthest left route on the lower right flank of Wall 3.

Start down at the toe of the arete just before where the 3rd class gully to the tower starts. Use the first crack for your right and the arete for your left. Don't bother trying to place any gear for the first 40 feet. Your first good piece will be a #3 at the start of the OW/squeeze chimney high up. Get inside and grovel for just enough before busting through. Now head up and left to that jagged patina face. Traverse over to what looks like a good crack, but in reality is a shallow seam. But wait! You actually can get a good finger piece in down low — but that's all you're going to have until you reach the top, so get going...

Rock Climbing Photo: Rich Beckett getting ready to exit the chimney fol...
Rich Beckett getting ready to exit the chimney following on the FA. (Photo Jan Roestel)

Protection 

A standard rack, but you won't need that much. You can sling the oak branch en route, but that may not even slow you down if you tumble. A #3 (and perhaps a #4 if you're not feeling secure, but the chimney isn't that long). A #1 goes in well before exiting. A red TCU for the almost-crack and that's about it. (Note: there's a dorm-sized fridge block just before you get into the chimney that looks like it will take a nice .5---best to move on since that thing is going to blow sooner than later.)


Photos of More Catastrophic than 'Armageddon' Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The seam to follow. (Some of the branches have sin...
The seam to follow. (Some of the branches have sin...
Rock Climbing Photo: After transitioning to the arete and almost to the...
After transitioning to the arete and almost to the...
Rock Climbing Photo: Rich Beckett getting ready to exit the chimney fol...
Rich Beckett getting ready to exit the chimney fol...

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