More Affliction
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British PG13
Avg: 3 from 6 votes
Type: | Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | FA First pitch 1981 Bob Branscomb, Kim Treadaway. Second pitch 1989 Bob Branscomb, P. Brown, K. Stouffer. |
Page Views: | 1,123 total · 12/month |
Shared By: | Ney Grant on Jun 24, 2016 |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Thin 5.10 face moves bring you past two bolts then it gradually gets easier. The route heads up and a little left, then up water streaks past a the big dike and hard right to the first belay at the rap chains (not the double bolts) shared with Friction Affliction. The route from here heads up and left for a romp across the 5.7/5.8 face seeking out flake and roof features large enough to accept pro. Aim for the left end of a small, long roof (a big section of which fell off September, 2015) and then up to a vertical flake system. From there you should be able to see the belay anchor. The pitch ends and at the top anchor of Red Dawn, two uneven bolts with rings and screwlinks. The third pitch heads up and slightly right past one bolt on very easy climbing, then up and left to the very top anchor / rap chains
Once at the top you can rap straight down in two raps with two 70M ropes or rap back down the climb with shorter ropes in three raps (or walk off).
Or you can skip P3 by heading dead right at the top of P2 to the chained rap station on Friction Affliction.
Once at the top you can rap straight down in two raps with two 70M ropes or rap back down the climb with shorter ropes in three raps (or walk off).
Or you can skip P3 by heading dead right at the top of P2 to the chained rap station on Friction Affliction.
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