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Crystal Wall Area
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Arch Traverse S 
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More Affliction T 
Red Dawn S 

More Affliction 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 450'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
FA: FA First pitch 1981 Bob Branscomb, Kim Treadaway. Second pitch 1989 Bob Branscomb, P. Brown, K. Stouffer.
Page Views: 168
Submitted By: Ney Grant on Jun 24, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Freshly rebolted, 2015.

Description 

Thin 5.10 face moves bring you past two bolts then it gradually gets easier. The route heads up and a little left, then up water streaks past a the big dike and hard right to the first belay at the rap chains (not the double bolts) shared with Friction Affliction. The route from here heads up and left for a romp across the 5.7/5.8 face seeking out flake and roof features large enough to accept pro. Aim for the left end of a small, long roof (a big section of which fell off September, 2015) and then up to a vertical flake system. From there you should be able to see the belay anchor. The pitch ends and at the top anchor of Red Dawn, two uneven bolts with rings and screwlinks. The third pitch heads up and slightly right past one bolt on very easy climbing, then up and left to the very top anchor / rap chains

Once at the top you can rap straight down in two raps with two 70M ropes or rap back down the climb with shorter ropes in three raps (or walk off).

Or you can skip P3 by heading dead right at the top of P2 to the chained rap station on Friction Affliction.

Location 

Look for a sandy spot to the right of a large boulder. There is lots of debris from rockfall of 2015.

On the topo image found under "Crystal Wall Area", this is climb number 6.

Protection 

All bolts first pitch. Bring small pro for second pitch. Some of the placements are not the best so the second pitch isn't for the 5.7/5.8 leader.


Photos of More Affliction Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ney Grant rebolting More Affliction
Ney Grant rebolting More Affliction
Rock Climbing Photo: Betsy Grant rebolting in 2015. Before rockfall and...
Betsy Grant rebolting in 2015. Before rockfall and...

Comments on More Affliction Add Comment
Show which comments
By BruceB
From: Reno, NV
5 days ago

Great 1st pitch. The second pitch trad pro is horrible. Next time we'll try going to the 1st pitch anchors of Red Dawn followed by the 2nd pitch of Red Dawn.

The topo shows 5 bolts on P1, but I think there was at least 7 bolts.

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