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Mordor 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 350'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Greg Barnes, Joe Denicola, Linda Jarit, 9/08
Page Views: 1,102
Submitted By: snowhazed on Mar 19, 2010

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Slightly closer view

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Damn fun route that puts you on one of the finest summits in the Meadows.

P1 Choose between a 5.6 ow, a 5.8 dihedral, or a 5.9 corner that all end at the same spot

P2 To the right is the gorgeous red, orange, and grey ow corner of Stomper. You can take this or go for the slammer 5.8 hands to the left. Belay under a huge roof system.

P3 Once again to the right is Stomper going up a heinous, hard, and crumbly 10a flare. Instead go straight up into a brushy face with a right facing corner and a massive roof to the left. Find the bolt, traverse to the corner, face climb/lb past the very short ow, undercling the the 10c crux roof way out in space. Then turn several overlapping roofs up easier ground to a ledge. This unique and super exposed pitch makes this route worthy.

P4 Choose your own adventure up easy 5th to the summit.

Location 

Same approach as Hobbit Book. Before the trail turns to ledges.

Protection 

.5 to 3". Optional #6 if you want to destroy yourself with ropedrag for the crux roof and beyond. Better to just trust the brand new bolt a few feet below you.


Photos of Mordor Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Greg Barnes (the orange dot) and Linda Jarit on th...
Greg Barnes (the orange dot) and Linda Jarit on th...

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By Alexey
From: San Jose
Apr 1, 2010

Robert, since this is new route and there is no topo for it , please be more specific and precise about location of the route ( between what two routes for instance it going ) and route description, otherwise your information is not useful
By snowhazed
From: Oakland, Ca
Aug 16, 2010

uh- i referenced stomper and gave details about all pitches and approach. you want me to spell out where the spooky parts are and what pro it takes?

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