REI Community
The White Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Fruit Bowl S 
Joker, The S 
Mordor S 
No Joke S 
Shock Treatment S 
Sporte S 
Stone Free S 
Total Joker S 
Total Recall S 


YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
Page Views: 2,564
Submitted By: Aimee Rose on Mar 30, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (74)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Getting to the second bolt


Starts on featured rock to a funky squeeze around a block to reach the anchors.

Details: Mordor starts with some pocket pulling up to a small bulge/roof. Once you get past that, you run up about fifteen feet of slab to where the wall goes to slightly overhanging again. Pull up and out a bit left on good pockets and the wall eases back to vertical. Work edges and pockets up to the finishing block, that has cracks on both sides. Some like the left, some like to offwidth the right side. Don't forget to clip the last bolt on the outside of the block!


8 bolts to chains. Please don't toprope off the chains.

Photos of Mordor Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: the start of Mordor, good luck Frodo!
BETA PHOTO: the start of Mordor, good luck Frodo!

Comments on Mordor Add Comment
Show which comments
By claytown
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 6, 2006

A little funky at the top. grunting might help. I think I even used my knee.
By Dean Hoffman
Jun 9, 2007

Start of Mordor is a tad harder these days after the chunk of stone holding the first bolt and starting holds peeled off this winter. Has been rebolted and other loose rock cleaned thanks to Chris Thornley I believe. Thanks Chris!
By Tavis Ricksecker
Dec 11, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I'd say the start is way harder. The opening moves used to be a breeze, now they seem at least as hard as True Value. And you still have the upper cruxes...
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Aug 10, 2011

This might be 10+/11a w the second bolt stick-clipped, actually stopping to clip the second bolt feels more like solid 11 and totally ruins the flow of climbing through that section.
By karl vochatzer
From: Cedar City, UT
Aug 13, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I don't have the history to know what it used to feel like, yet I agree that the lower section was a bit of a crux. The rock still crumbles on this route. I felt it deserved it original rating from McMullen's hand-drawn topo of 5.11-. Good route. I enjoyed the onsight.
By dsmit
From: Flagstaff, Az
Nov 4, 2011

Just did this one today. Lots of fun, I disagree that the second bolt ruins the flow, just climb up to the jug and one can clip the bolt at about chest level. The upper crux wasn't bad but the last moves where goof ball city! Fun stuff.
From: Indianapolis, IN
Sep 16, 2015
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

Enjoyed the route. Didn't see any issues below but I'm a 12 climber which might make a difference. Agree with the 10d rating.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About