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YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Vaino Kodas and Bob D'Antonio
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,618
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Apr 14, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Just past the traverse crux.

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  • Description 

    Mordor second pitch is by far one of the most spectacular in the Boulder area.

    Pitch one: 5.10d Start 50 feet right of "Direct Route" on a ledge with several pine trees. Climb up a dog-leg crack (tricky start and gear) to a ledge. Follow a thin seam past two bolts up to a two-bolt-anchor.

    Pitch two: 5.12b/c Climb up to first bolt and make committing moves out left towards the arete. Make a hard, technical move past the second bolt and reach a good incut hold. Follow the bolts up the face and move left at the fourth bolt. Reach the arete and 500 feet of air below your feet. A spectacular spot! Climb the arete up to a two-bolt-anchor.

    Rappel the route to the ground. Three-star climbing with four-star position!


    The first pitch takes small to medium gear. First pitch ends at a two-bolt-anchor. Pitch two is protected by six bolts and ends at a two-bolt-anchor.

    Photos of Mordor Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Vishnu, Angle of Repose, and Mordor.
    BETA PHOTO: Vishnu, Angle of Repose, and Mordor.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Spectacular perpective of Mordor.
    Spectacular perpective of Mordor.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Mordor.

    Comments on Mordor Add Comment
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    By ChanVan Schaack
    Nov 4, 2013
    rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

    Very cool route - hard/ somewhat scary second clip due to swing potential - I used a long quickdraw on the second bolt. After you get that clipped, tiny feet through the crux section with some hard crimpin' but mercifully brief. The rest of the climb after that is amazing, 5.11, steep, edge climbing with mega exposure. Rad.

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