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Morass 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mike Dobie
Page Views: 190
Submitted By: Brandon Gottung on Nov 1, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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topo

Description 

Fun and varied climbing up a solid flake. Rests are plentiful. Makes a great warmup for the harder finger cracks in the Lisu Area.

Location 

Right of where approach trail deposits you along the cliff, just right of Faraway Corner.

Protection 

Doubles .3-#3. Optional #4. In camalots.


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By RyderS Stroud
From: Dali, Yunnan Province, China
May 9, 2015

A great route with movement of both trad and sport climbing. Begin by liebacking up a solid flake until it terminates on some slopey, awkward ledges marked with a skinny crack. Get atop these wakward ledges with a combo of face and crack until a left-facing crack-corner opens on your right. Jam up through this crack towards a pedestal beneath the chains. Getting up on top of the pedestal can be awkward if you miss some hidden good holds.

No gear to lower from. Rap clean the route.
By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Portland, OR
Nov 11, 2016
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Very soft for the grade in my opinion. Also, I would recommend #.2-4, no doubles necessary.
By Tao Techakanon
From: Bangkok, Thailand
Apr 23, 2017
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

This thing does feel like a sport climb. One can get through this w/o much jamming so long as the placements are solid.

I personally did not place anything bigger than a #2 C4

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