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Moral Dilemma 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: T. Goss, T. Perkins
Season: Fall, Winter
Page Views: 2,502
Submitted By: Chuck on Aug 27, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (36)
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Reaching for pocket on Moral Dilemma


Big fun moves on a pocketed sandstone arete. This route is in the shade by 1200. Possible to do in summer. Longer draws will reduce rope drag.


By the 3rd main pull off. on the east side of the arete.


Five Quick Draws + Anchor
Five Bolts + 2 bolt anchor. No chains or rap rings.

Photos of Moral Dilemma Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Brandon on Moral Dilemma
Brandon on Moral Dilemma
Rock Climbing Photo: steep at times...
steep at times...
Rock Climbing Photo: A little fuzzy, sorry.
A little fuzzy, sorry.
Rock Climbing Photo: Moral Dilemma - first bolt has been removed.
BETA PHOTO: Moral Dilemma - first bolt has been removed.
Rock Climbing Photo: Robear making the big starting moves
Robear making the big starting moves

Comments on Moral Dilemma Add Comment
Show which comments
By tenesmus
Nov 4, 2007

Yeah, what's up with removing that first bolt? The sandy-ness does not lend itself well with committing to that move. I couldn't commit and backed off. It seems like many of the anchors on that cliff band have glue on them to keep people from taking them. still one of the warmer spots on a cold day in st george.
By Bret Crapo
From: Springville, UT
May 12, 2008

My favorite in the gap! The missing first bolt does create quite a dillema..... Brave the scary beginning, and you will be rewarded!
By Kendall
From: St George, UT
Apr 1, 2009

This is a great climb. I think it's fairly easily identified in the book. The rating may be a bit too high though, but that's just my opinion.
By Hendrixson
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 19, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Longer draws will reduce rope drag? How much drag can you possibly get on a 30' sport route? Anyhoo fun route.
By Nathan Marsh
From: st. george utah
Dec 4, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

i was staring at this and had my drill and bolts in my car and was about to re-add the first bolt(i hate reading about people complaining about old or missing bolts and nothing ever being done about it, takes 5 mins and $3).. anyways the more i looked at it the more i thought that re adding a first bolt would not help much... it really doesn't protect much of the climb other than preventing someone from rolling down the hill, you would however still deck. so i can kinda see why the first bolt was removed.. too many people trying to go for the second clip and taking nasty falls "trusting the first bolt". The "new" first bolt is very dicey to clip, but once clipped protects well. Maybe this is a climb that needs a stick clip? i wouldn't recommend trying to clip that first and i don't think adding the original first helps much either. I dunno, what is everyone else thoughts?
By grk10vq
Dec 4, 2012

stick clip for the "onsight" - go for it on the redpoint. once you know the initial moves, getting to that first bolt with a draw pre-hung is fine.

there was a lot of stress put on the original first bolt. given where the belayer stands versus where the climbing is...
given all the falling, hanging, nature of the rock, etc; that bolt just got yarded on where it was.
By Nathan Marsh
From: st. george utah
Mar 26, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

someone re added the first bolt on this route. It was moved a few feet to the left and is actually in a much better position to protect a fall going for the 2nd.
By Jon K
From: St. George, UT
May 24, 2014

There are at least quicklinks at the top now. This could be a classic if it were more consistent. Worth a climb if you must find yourself at the gap.
By jeffozozo
From: santa clara, utah
Mar 1, 2016
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

The first few moves of this feel really difficult and athletic, but they are awesome. At the third bolt, there is a really big jug, hidden in a slot to the left that opens up that section. This is truly a great climb.

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