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Moral Bells Arete 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: James Garrett and Glen Kaplan, 13 August 2007
New Route: Yes
Season: Great anytime
Page Views: 4,749
Submitted By: James Garrett on Aug 14, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (102)
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BETA PHOTO: Here's a topo for the new extension...


Glen and I always felt that Contor and Taylor (FA of Coral Bells Arete) had cut that arete short. After replacement bolting that 20 year old line, we extended the pitch up. Clip the two-bolt belay and climb past two more bolts to the two bolt anchor. This makes for "more" of the Coral Bells Arete. The rock is excellent and required very little cleaning.
CBA was not altered or changed in any way. The old spinners were pulled out and replaced by Mike White and ASCA. Thanks again for teaching us the true craft of bolt removal.


Climb Coral Bells Arete and keep on going for Moral Bells Arete. Rappel the route with one rope.


6 QDs from the ground and a nut or .4 Camalot for the gear placement on CBA.

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 27, 2016
By glen kaplan
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 14, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

yeah...the arete stops here!

extensions are good! all kinds of extensions...
By Ryan Brough
From: Arvada, Colorado
Aug 25, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This extension makes the arete a more enjoyable climb. Together, I give them three stars! ***
By John Bradford
From: Yellowstone National Park
Sep 26, 2007

Sorry; did this yesterday and I am just not sure that it adds much to the climb. OK, but easy climbing with all the good stuff still below the original anchors. Just my opinion, I could be wrong.....
By James Garrett
Sep 29, 2007

Couldn't agree with you more John. We just seem to like longer pitches, I guess. The original anchors are still in place and were not altered. I recently spoke with Gary Taylor after he had climbed "Moral". He liked the extension, but you are correct, the best moves probably remain down low.
By Stymingersfink
Dec 24, 2007

Clip the first anchors, then get lowered.

The FA's had the right idea in mind... a great little route, with not a lot of extraneous bullsh!t.

Hell, the best part of the route is getting from the ground, up the arete to the second bolt!
By edwin
Jun 24, 2009

I like the extension. The first time I got on this, surprised at how quickly I found myself at chains, I headed right and finished up the 10a. If the best part is getting to the second bolt, bring a pad. Or do you guys not have any because you don't topout boulders?
By Tryhard Scoville
From: Sandy, UT
May 16, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Great route. Aside from the sweet starting crux, I thought the extension was the best part of the route.
By celerystick
From: Riverton
Jun 6, 2011

I guess if you just want to do the first part of Coral Bells, set a bouldering pad. Otherwise, do the extension. If you want to boulder, there are much better places to go than here though. I think the point is to get a little elevation. It's the same grade, it's similar quality, why wouldn't you take a few more minutes? I liked it! The single best move is on Coral, but everything after that is still very good...all the way up Moral.
By Hendem
Jun 15, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

A fun climb, but in the upper section you can encounter a few loose rocks. Last night I almost pulled a rock about the size of a Rubix's cube lose. It still remains up there, waiting.
By rging
From: Salt Lake City, Ut
Apr 30, 2013

I must have stepped on that loose rock and sent it and all its sharp sides toward my belayers head. He jumped out of the way after I yelled rock twice in rapid succession, almost pulling me off in the process. He was marveling at his survival skills while I was yelling at him to give me a little slack so I could finish, or at least clip the nearest bolt.
By Rob Stinogle
Apr 11, 2016

You'll definitely want a small nut or cam to protect the runout section after the second bolt. We placed a Metolius 0, which worked great.
By Cassidy Thomas
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 27, 2016

The first couple times I climbed it I placed a blue BD stopper under the little shelf on the runout section. But I forgot my rack the other day and climbed it without any gear. I kind of noticed that by the time I placed the nut, the difficult section is pretty much over. Just keep your head for one more move and you have a bolt.

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