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Moonshiner's Guide to the Galaxy
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
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Routes in The Frenchman Buttress
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Moonshiner's Guide to the Galaxy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Austen Beason, Connor Mason |
| Page Views: | 817 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Grimpeur Beason on May 29, 2015 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
The route follows one of the cleaner dihedrals up the buttress's SE face.
Pitch one starts on the last easy access, grassy ledges below the dihedral and moves up ledges that funnel you into the dihedral system. Move up into the dihedral, and do some delicate stemming and face climbing up to small ledge with a bush.
Pitch two climbs the splitter dihedral hand crack through the small, arching roof and finishes with 15' of finger crack to a large ledge system.
Pitch three seems to have several options for the bold, but we moved climber's right 40' into the large dihedral/chimney and system and followed it to the top.
The descent can either be a long hike down from the saddle to the west side of the buttress, or move up another 100' and make one rappel (70m rope) off a tree to dirty gully and follow that back to the base of the route.
Pitch one starts on the last easy access, grassy ledges below the dihedral and moves up ledges that funnel you into the dihedral system. Move up into the dihedral, and do some delicate stemming and face climbing up to small ledge with a bush.
Pitch two climbs the splitter dihedral hand crack through the small, arching roof and finishes with 15' of finger crack to a large ledge system.
Pitch three seems to have several options for the bold, but we moved climber's right 40' into the large dihedral/chimney and system and followed it to the top.
The descent can either be a long hike down from the saddle to the west side of the buttress, or move up another 100' and make one rappel (70m rope) off a tree to dirty gully and follow that back to the base of the route.
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