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The Frenchman Buttress
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Moonshiner's Guide to the Galaxy T 

Moonshiner's Guide to the Galaxy 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Austen Beason, Connor Mason
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 158
Submitted By: Grimpeur on May 29, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Moonshiner's Guide to the Galaxy. Green circles ar...

Description 

The route follows one of the cleaner dihedrals up the buttress's SE face.

Pitch one starts on the last easy access, grassy ledges below the dihedral and moves up ledges that funnel you into the dihedral system. Move up into the dihedral, and do some delicate stemming and face climbing up to small ledge with a bush.

Pitch two climbs the splitter dihedral hand crack through the small, arching roof and finishes with 15' of finger crack to a large ledge system.

Pitch three seems to have several options for the bold, but we moved climber's right 40' into the large dihedral/chimney and system and followed it to the top.

The descent can either be a long hike down from the saddle to the west side of the buttress, or move up another 100' and make one rappel (70m rope) off a tree to dirty gully and follow that back to the base of the route.

Location 

When at the base of the talus field below the buttress, the climb begins on the SE face, looker's right. The route begins on nondescript ledges below the dihedral and naturally funnels you into the dihedral.

Protection 

Standard rack with doubles from #0.5-#2. A #4 was also useful.


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