|Type:||Trad, 5 pitches, 400'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]|
|Submitted By:||Dean Hoffman on Apr 27, 2014|
|Comments on Moonshiner||Add Comment|
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By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 26, 2014
a great "welcome back to sedona" route. A few notes from our ascent yesterday. Great tshirt temps.
Good beta about stashing packs, leaving approach shoes at jungle belay etc.
As sands through the hour glass so will be below the clever access pitch.
P2 is pretty awesome, P3 is price of admission, but still fun and interesting, to the sweet 4th pitch wide hands pitch to a big sunny ledge.
The last pitch is wild and exposed. I fell into the temptation of climbing too much on the arete, offline of the bolts which made clips hard but i also found supplemental gear (small to medium cams). Some of the bolts were hidden which added to the excitement- keep your eyes peeled. I found the crux to be around the 3rd bolt and getting to and clipping the 4th.
This will be popular route as it continues to clean up!
From: flagstaff, AZ
Feb 21, 2016
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
To lead the "Dark Side" P1 of Moonshiner would be a very heady and difficult endeavor. It is often sandy and the holds are thin and sloper while the bolts are sparse. That said, there are some incredible moves. I can not remember being so pumped on a slabby face climb! I managed to onsight it on TR but felt I was about to fail several times. Traversing in to TR this pitch would be worthwhile even if you don't climb the rest of the route. Alternatively, a good plan is to climb Pocket Full of Horses finishing on the final 2 pitches of Moonshiner, then rap Moonshiner and TR the first pitch.
P2 of Moonshiner starts difficult and dirty but turns into excellent clean rock with a wide crack.
P3 also starts out difficult and dirty and then becomes just difficult as you thrutch out of an overhanging pod into an OW. It does finish nice though with a thin hands crack in a flare.
P4 is why you are here! Steep hands to wide hands & fists!
P5 is of an entirely different character, Thin sloper face moves to the left of a more positive arete. My 6'2" partner did a dead-point to a sloper which would have likely been impossible for a shorter person. I managed with out it leaning left and utilizing heal hooks to the right.
A worthy adventure for sure!