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Moonshine Dihedral 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: FFA: Dean Fry and JeffThomas 11/72
Season: Year round
Page Views: 17,932
Submitted By: Karsten Duncan on Jan 25, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (271)
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Stemming on MD

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


This is one of the most classic trad lines at Smith. The crux is in the first 20ft but many a climber has been shut down up high going for the chains. It protects well at any point and has classic stemming and finger locks. Climb the corner to anchors on the face.

There is a decent second pitch but most make it a one pitch endeavor.


wires, cams to 3 inches

Photos of Moonshine Dihedral Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: long awesome corner.
long awesome corner.
Rock Climbing Photo: love this route
love this route
Rock Climbing Photo: Jon getting up.
Jon getting up.
Rock Climbing Photo: Me getting off the ground.
Me getting off the ground.
Rock Climbing Photo: Almost done.
Almost done.

Comments on Moonshine Dihedral Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 3, 2016
By ALuckyDuck
From: Denver, CO
May 9, 2017

A pair of birds were flying in and out of the crack just right of the P1 anchor. They may have been swifts, or martins, or swallows...I'm not a biologist. There may or may not be a nest in the crack.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Jun 11, 2008

Fun climbing up to the first anchors. A well protected gear climb for the budding trad climber. The crack takes stoppers really well.
By Wolfgang Braun
From: Beavercreek, Oregon
Oct 15, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Definitely easy to protect, with good stances to place gear. Would be a good beginners Dihedral.
By Carl A
From: brooklyn, ny
Mar 30, 2009

The pro was good, but so was the pump up top! It's no gimme.
By Cat Cahoon
From: Seattle, WA
May 24, 2009

this may be the best 5.9 at smith. super fun climb. good flow, good options.
By cerickson
From: Portland, OR
Aug 30, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This is probably one of the best 5.9 gear pitches I've ever done - anywhere. A must do.
By K Baumgartner
Aug 4, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

My first 9 trad lead. Business time is definitely right off the ground. Got a nice rest about 30-40 feet up. Option of using left hand crack towards the top helps reduce the pump factor.
By Alex Quitiquit
From: Salt Lake City
Aug 16, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Awesome, takes cams well.
By Obi
From: Portland, OR
May 4, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Probably my favorite .9 trad route at Smith. I thought the last 20' were harder than the first 20'. All in all takes good pro.
By morgoth70
From: Bountiful, UT
Jun 17, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

My favorite 5.9 at Smith. The "crux" comes early, but the pumpy upper moves keep the challenge coming all the way to the top. The second pitch is not as good but well worth doing.
By Brian Martin
From: Bend, OR
Jul 18, 2015

Beat 5.9 at smith? Probably. Best 5.9 crack climb at smith? Definitely. Wear a helmet though if you aren't very aware. I watched a guy slam the top of his head into the flake and bloody it pretty good one time. Pay attention and you will be fine.
By Serge Smirnov
Jun 28, 2016

I found the first 20' of this 5.9 harder than the 10a pitches of Zebra and Trezlar - mainly due to lack of good stances for placing protection. Also, the crack is very polished, so jams that would be easy elsewhere at Smith were quite strenuous.
By tsherry
From: Portland, OR
Oct 3, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

A good stout 5.9. Can be a little daunting for anyone new to trad. Focus on finding the comfortable stances to place pro. Don't spook and waste energy messing around with gear in a bad spot.

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