REI Community
Mount Athelstan
Select Route:
Gnomon Direct T 
Lillarete T 
Moonraker T 
Raised By Bears T 
Selective Cut T 
Solstice Start T 
Standing Wave T 

Moonraker 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1600', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: D Brayshaw, M Nikkinen, G Quan 2001
Season: June-September
Page Views: 822
Submitted By: Dru on May 1, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Fantastic Wall from the bivi site. Left to right: ...

Description 

To the left of the Randy Stoltmann Buttress lies the "Fantastic Wall", a large slab split by a huge sickle-shaped gully/chimney. Moonraker climbs left of this sickle feature, and breaks down into three sections:

4 pitches of mid-5th, 5.4-5.6 climbing. Pretty much anywhere between the sickle and the left arete can be climbed at the same grade. These pitches end at a break where the angle kicks back.

6 pitches of 4th class climbing. A great place to shortrope and simulclimb. Continue up the narrowing slab over many rubbly ledges, but wih solid rock underneath should you require pro. The final belay is at the apex of the sickle, a narrow arete with deep gullies on both sides.

2 pitches of 5.7. Step across the gap to the main face and climb solid rock with good cracks for pro and excellent block face holds, aiming for a V-notch in the summit ridge. These final pitches offer the best climbing on the route.

This is the easiest route on the Salal Creek Walls and is probably the most popular, with around 20 ascents as of 2009. A great introduction to alpine rock, simulclimbing and route finding.

Location 

Bring ice axe and possibly crampons in order to descend the couloir between Fantastic Wall and Randy Stoltmann Buttress back down to the bivi site. They are also usually needed to approach the bae of the route.

Protection 

Light rack up to #3 Camalot.


Photos of Moonraker Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Graham Quan climbing on Moonraker during the FA wi...
Graham Quan climbing on Moonraker during the FA wi...

Comments on Moonraker Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About