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Moonlight Madness 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 5 pitches, 900', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Grahm Doe and Leo Miner
Page Views: 4,491
Submitted By: C Brooks on Apr 17, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Climber to the right of the tree is going up Moonl...

Description 

Found to the right of afternoon nap. Look for a small pine tree a couple of hundred feet up. Start is on some flakes before getting into some well protected bolted slab.

Crux pitch is on p.4 a few well protected slab moves followed by an easy roof. Good fun!

Protection 

dozen quick draws, a few knob slings for the final pitch.


Photos of Moonlight Madness Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Just beyond the crux on Moonlight Madness
Just beyond the crux on Moonlight Madness
Rock Climbing Photo: Coming up pitch four.
Coming up pitch four.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Crux. P4, 10 feet off the belay. Well protecte...
The Crux. P4, 10 feet off the belay. Well protecte...

Comments on Moonlight Madness Add Comment
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By Sean P. Sullivan
From: Clovis, Ca
May 11, 2015

Another Shuteye classic! Leave the gear at the car, this thing only "needs" a couple placements, a small camalot would be enough. I placed a .5 on the first pitch, but i didnt need to. P2 has plenty of options for pro before the first bolt but the climbing eases up so much my partner pretty much walked past the seam and up to the bolt, placing nothing. I used the same .5 on p3 in the hole that the guidebook describes after the dike section. P4 is amazing!! The crux is actually below the roof, on delicate slab. Pull the roof and launch off onto the runnels and chickenheads! I slung 2 knobs before my bolt. The climbing was EASY but way fun. A must do if you hike up to the sleep.
By Max Hietpas
From: Oakland, CA
Aug 19, 2015

Hot hot hot! Did it last weekend (8/15). Fun climb! But make sure you start at the right spot - we started left of the actual route and ended up running the first pitch off one bolt!

Pitches 1-3 are great slab and 4-6 are the featured runnels and chickenheads. Wroth it for pitch 4 alone!

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