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Moon Bears S 

Moon Bears 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 9 pitches, 820'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: E. Salvaterra, M. Ghezzi - 2011
Page Views: 37
Submitted By: Alicia Sokolowski on Aug 30, 2017

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Almost done, clearing the last "little wall&q...

Description 

Start on top of the power plant gate at the obvious bolt line. Three popular, moderate routes share these first two pitches, so be prepared to jockey for position with some other parties. Also, don't link these two pitches. It's a mess with bushes and rope drag and slows down the other parties waiting to get on a line.

If you need to pass, a confident, capable party probably doesn't need a rope for p2.

Up higher you can link pitches here and there. Lengths are estimates.

p1: jump on the fence to start - 70 ft. 5.6

p2: go left across the bushy ledges - 70 ft. 5.3

p3: work your way straight up into the open book - 90 ft. 5.6

p4: pretty straight up the open book to the beginning of a long dihedral - 100 ft. 5.7

p.5: first of two crux pitches. While it is safely bolted, the bolts seem to come way before and after the actual crux moves. A nut placement will buy you peace of mind if you feel sketchy pulling a 5.9 move with a bolt a foot or two below your feet. 110 ft. 5.9

p.6: This is the second of the two crux pitches. See comment above. This finishes out the long dihedral and lands you back at the base of a corner - 110 ft. 5.9

p.7: Finish out the corner and you are back at the base of another dihedral - 70 ft. 5.8

p.8: Nice dihedral climbing. I found this to be a very attractive pitch - 110 ft. 5.8

p.9: My partner really enjoyed surmounting this little wall - 90 ft. 5.7 (just at the beginning, eases off after the little wall at the start of the pitch)

Location 

Start at the obvious gate.

46.047278, 10.945996

Protection 

Bolts. You can protect a couple of 5.9 moves with nuts if you prefer gear at your waist instead of gear below your feet at that grade.


Photos of Moon Bears Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Brief moment of slabbiness (I believe around pitch...
Brief moment of slabbiness (I believe around pitch...
Rock Climbing Photo: Steep fun up the long dihedrals
Steep fun up the long dihedrals
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 3 with Moon Bears name painted in white squa...
Pitch 3 with Moon Bears name painted in white squa...
Rock Climbing Photo: Name painted at start of third pitch.
BETA PHOTO: Name painted at start of third pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Start at gate.  These two pitches are shared with ...
Start at gate. These two pitches are shared with ...

Comments on Moon Bears Add Comment
Show which comments
By kenr
3 days ago

See also ...

Note that some guidebooks and websites call this wall "Parete del Limarò". This new "Moon Bears" route is next right from the older routes "Amazzonia" and "Orizzonti Dolomitici".

Difficulty:
  • One website says its mostly IV+ and V+, with 1 sequence of VI-.
. . . . (similar to "Orizzonti Dolomitici" just left of it).
Those UIAA grades are usually said to be equivalent to Euro sport grade 5a with a little 5b.
  • An English-language blog report says lots of 5b with a little 5c.
. . . . (similar to Amazzonia to left of it).
. . . . (so more difficult than the routes to its left).

Many guidebooks and websites say Euro 5a is like USA 5.7 and Euro 5b is like USA 5.8 (and that fits my experience). But a few guidebooks and websites say 5b is like 5.9. Euro 6a is often said to be into 5.10 territory.

GPS latitude longitude given in the Description above (as of 2017) is for the gate or the parking, not the base of the climb - (which should be clear from the careful context provided in the Description).
By Alicia Sokolowski
From: Brooklyn, NY
2 days ago

Hey Ken, the gate is the base of the climb unless you choose not to count the shared pitches.

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