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Montgomery Cliff S 

Montgomery Cliff 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Eric Kohl and Cade Loyd (1992)
Page Views: 390
Submitted By: Bryan G on Oct 1, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Cragging below Columbia Point. Use caution if clim...

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A rare bolted crack in Yosemite. This is located below the Upper Falls Trail a short distance below Columbia Point. The trail starts by switchbacking up the huge forested bowl below Camp 4 Wall. Then it beings to traverse to the east through cliff bands toward the sandy slopes of Columbia Point. When you see Joe Palmer (the thin crack on a rounded arete) above the trail, then you are basically right on top of Montgomery Cliff. Backtrack a short ways and scramble across 3rd class ledges to reach the start of the route. Scope out the approach from Camp 4.

The climb has some really flaky rock on the surface, but if it got climbed more it would clean up nicely. The steepness and variety of movement make it pretty fun regardless. Climb the crack to a 2 bolt anchor at a shelf. There are a couple cruxes in the upper half. Bring some webbing (or better yet, quicklinks/chains) to rappel off of.

Protection 

Bolts, or to lead it on gear bring cams to 2" with extra in the tips to fingers sizes.


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