REI Community
Montezuma's Head
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Montezuma's Revenge T 
Northwest Chimney Route, The T 
Ricardo Cabeza T 
Southwest Face, The T 

Montezuma's Revenge 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13 [details]
FA: FA P1-3: Todd Swain, Peggy Buckey 12/20/83  FA P4: Donette & Todd Swain  4/95
Season: winter
Page Views: 74
Submitted By: Gunkswest on Jan 31, 2017

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Check with the park for the latest information on climbing and backcountry use.

Description 

This route climbs the north face of the tower, and joins The NW Chimney Route after nearly 500 feet of climbing. From the north col, scramble up an easy ramp then move left (E) to a deep chimney/groove with agave plants and waterstreaks.

P1) Up the chimney/groove for thirty feet (good nut) then traverse out right to a sloping ledge. Climb straight up over a bulge (5.6) to a ramp leading up and right. Belay in the alcove above. 100 ft; 5.6
P2) From the alcove traverse left (E) twenty feet across a steep wall. Climb straight up to a three foot roof in a shallow right facing corner. Surmount the roof (5.7), then climb straight up to a belay ledge. Belay behind a huge block. 100 ft; 5.7
P3) Scramble up on easy rock to the midheight meadow, and the base of the upper cliff. 200 ft; 5.2
P4) Go to the extreme lower left (NE) end of the midheight meadow and belay from a bolt and fixed pin under a ceiling. Turn the ceiling and follow a chimney past overhangs to a ledge. Step right and climb a waterstreak/groove to a belay on a sheltered ledge in a corner (as for P4 of The NW Chimney Route). 80 ft; 5.7+
P5) Move left (E) around the corner into a chimney, then straight up lower angled rock (passing a two bolt anchor) to a shallow right leaning corner and the summit. 150 ft; 5.4

Location 

From the north col, scramble up an easy ramp then move left (E) to a deep chimney/groove with agave plants and waterstreaks.

Descent:
There used to be a rappel route down the SW face of the spire, but the rock has become too loose to trust. This leaves but one option:
 
1) Downclimb to the two bolts on pitch five of The NW Face Route, and then rappel from there to the traverse ledge with one rope.
2) Reverse the traverse to the bolt and fixed wire. Rappel down to the mid-height meadow with one rope.
3) Scramble down to the north col or reverse the lower portion of The SW Face Route.

Protection 

Carry a rack up to a blue Camalot and shoulder length slings. Bring extra webbing or cord to bolster the rappel anchors.


Comments on Montezuma's Revenge Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About