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Montana Gangster 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Trad, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Trevor Bowman, Neil Kauffman, Joel Kauffman, Alex Stroud 3/26/11
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 688
Submitted By: Trevor Bowman on Apr 17, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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A closer shot of the lower bit...not the better ha...

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


An unusual Creek outing demanding a variety of techniques. Start with a short fingers corner, pull onto a shelf, face climb up some dubious soft rock, grapple out a strenuous, bulging slot, and jam up the nicely varnished upper corner with sustained ringlocks and tight hands, stemming on the occasional face features. Shelf belay stance.

The lower section was cleaned/trundled a good bit after the lead, but still needs some love. It's a softer band that will never be great, but should be safer now at least. Some traffic cleaning will certainly help. The upper corner is quite nice, and worth the lower choss wrangling IMO.


On the far right side of the cliff, 50' right of Twitch. Plaque at base.


(1).3 .4 .5, (3).75, (3)#1, (2) #2, (1)#3 Camalots, Med stoppers for lower face, slings. Chain anchors.

Photos of Montana Gangster Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The route with the upper corner foreshortened.
BETA PHOTO: The route with the upper corner foreshortened.

Comments on Montana Gangster Add Comment
Show which comments
By slim
Oct 31, 2011

clever name, i like it!
By 303scott
Mar 10, 2014

While the upper section looks enticing, I bailed on this route after a few footholds crumbled in the rotten section. Gear in that area is suspect too as you can't tell if you are placing it in rock or just really hard dirt...I would avoid unless/until it cleans up significantly.
By Devin Fin
Nov 30, 2015

I bailed on this dirty climb to ... Takes a lot to get me to turn around an call it ... But it was more then just a stretch of bad rock ....

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